Canadian Exclusive: A First Look at 110 Years of Chanel Couture

We’ve all heard of quiet luxury, to be sure, but what of “invisible luxury”? Well, that is a term that can only belong to Chanel.

For a Canadian exclusive, FASHION was granted a rare opportunity to view the iconic French Maison’s latest short film, 110 Years of Haute Couture: In the Chanel Ateliers, before it’s released globally on Monday, January 27. As the title suggests, the feature — directed by Thierry Demaizière and Alban Teurlai— offers fashion fans a captivating look into the elusive and rich history of Chanel couture, as it pulls back the proverbial tweed curtain of the Chanel Spring 2025 Couture show, which is set to make its debut in Paris on Tuesday, January 28.

As the film reveals, the ateliers at 31 rue Cambon in Paris are nothing short of a couture candyland. Sumptuous fabrics stretch endlessly before the eye, while tantalizing textured accents — sequins, feathers, and beads — sprinkle the air with their iridescent indulgence. The rooms themselves are a revolving stage for celebrities, stylists, and models, all seamlessly intertwined in the creation of art. In short, it’s as aesthetically arresting as you would imagine.

Yet, what often escapes notice — and what this film so beautifully illuminates — is the extraordinary technical wizardry that Chanel weaves into every stitch. This “invisible luxury,” as one craftswoman eloquently describes it, remains hidden from the casual viewer. We see only the finished fantasy. The painstaking hours of work embedded in every seam, every hem, are deliberately concealed; the artisans do not wish us to see them. Much like a dream, the enchantment lies in the unseen — in the magic that unfolds out of view.

A single couture creation may take thousands of hours to craft. Indeed, one pink tweed ensemble from the Maison’s Fall 2024 Couture show (pictured above) alone required over 3,005 hours to complete, and there were more than 45 other looks in that collection.

But no matter how lavish the embellishments — whether fur, feathers, or frills — the foundation of every garment remains constant. It all begins with the toile: a prototype constructed from modest fabric. After reviewing sketches, the Premières — the heads of the ateliers responsible for creating the couture — gather at minimum 25 measurements to tailor the fabric meticulously to the model’s form. Think of it as a second skin, albeit one of extraordinary luxury. From this point, the Studio selects fabrics and embroideries, and the true magic begins. “You do feel like the sense of: this is the only dress in the world like this,” Naomi Campbell says in the video.

As no two Chanel couture creations are ever identical, we can be certain that we will witness more of this artistry when the Spring 2025 Couture collection takes the runway on Tuesday. While the film remains, as expected, largely secretive about the new garments, a few mysterious details emerge. Notably, Ms. Chanel’s unexpected love for colour. Soft baby blue tweeds appear to be sprinkled throughout the collection, alongside whites, pinks and greens. One Première also speaks of Chanel’s iconic braiding technique, a craft that predates Coco’s first couture collection in 1915. Over the past century, the House’s meticulous artisanship has shined through in each collection. Not so invisible after all.

Want to revisit some of Chanel’s best couture creations? We don’t blame you. Below, a highly condensed grouping of some of FASHION’s most recent favourites.

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Photography via Launchmetrics.com/spotlight

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Chanel Fall 2024 Couture