How to Navigate Online Watch Auctions Like a Seasoned Pro

I was slowly snaking my way through the display cases at the Village Antiques Mall in Metro Vancouver, latte in hand, eyes scanning in search of treasure. Then I spotted it: a vintage Omega Seamaster. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that it was a commemorative timepiece dating back to the 1960s. And I was delighted to learn that the watch’s automatic movement was still keeping time just fine.

It’s not just the idea of paying a discounted price for a luxury timepiece — in this case a mere $375 — that makes buying a vintage watch such a draw. It’s also the allure of sporting a watch that tells a story — its unique patina hinting at the life it lived before it wound up on your wrist.

But stumbling upon a vintage watch that’s (a) well priced, (b) authentic and (c) still in good working order in a local antique store doesn’t happen every day. And with the rise in demand for vintage watches, I’ve taken my search online, expanding it to include mainstays like eBay as well as private online auction houses.

My most recent exercise? Bidding on two different Cartier watches — an 18-karat Tank Louis and a two-tone stainless Panthère on the same day. (Spoiler alert: I didn’t win either of them.) Still, I’ve picked up some tricks that might make your journey into the world of vintage watches a little less daunting.

Narrow In

From Audemars Piguet to Zenith, there’s a vintage watch on the market to suit every personal style. Narrowing down the selection is guided primarily by preference. Stainless, gold or mixed metal? Are you looking for a future family heirloom from the likes of Rolex or Cartier or something a little more approachable from, say, Longines? Scrolling the sites and feeds of timepiece influencers (I’d recommend @Mikenouveau, Hodinkee and Chrono24) to get a sense of the vintage case designs, movements and prices is a solid first step.

Do Your Homework

Research the seller history for authenticity considerations, buyer’s premiums (the amount you will pay over and above the selling price), shipping costs and, of course, the actual watch model being sold. Many listings have comprehensive condition reports detailing aspects such as bracelet stretch, movement type and whether the watch is keeping time or not. When in doubt, ask the seller.

Size Matters

It’s not just the size of the case that you have to consider. If you’re looking at a watch with a metal bracelet, check the wrist measurement to make sure it will fit. Too big? Taking out links is easy. But too small? Adding links can get pricey pretty quickly.

The Bottom Line

To avoid getting caught up in the excitement of a live-auction setting — and the ease of pushing that “bid” button — go in with a final bid price in mind. Look for comparable watches online to help settle on that number, plus factor in aspects such as condition and extra costs, including sizing, servicing and duty fees, to get there.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2025 issue. Find out more here.