How to Find the Perfect White T-Shirt
Plus, some stylist-approved picks to shop.
“A T-shirt says who you are to the world,” Shoshana Shapiro declares in season 4 of HBO’s Girls. She’s in a high-end clothing store, trying to convince a schlubby friend to care more about the quintessential basic. It’s a surprisingly wise musing from a character who is notoriously unrealistic and aggressively committed to the twee aesthetic. But here, she’s speaking facts: the plain white T-shirt is a cornerstone of a good closet.
Both a uniform of polished insouciance and the base for any outfit, the age-old garment is satisfyingly simple. It’s been a style symbol for decades: transcending gender, age and trend cycles. And it’s come a long way. “White tees were originally designed to be hidden as a base layer,” explains Jaclyn Patterson, a Toronto-based stylist. “They only became fashionable in the 1950s when worn in films by stars like Marlon Brando or James Dean.”
Since then, the humble tee has transformed into a seasonless staple. When it’s well-made with a proper fit, it exudes effortlessness and, as Shoshana said, helps the wearer carve out their identity. So, how do you go about finding the right one?
Don’t overlook fit
From afar, every plain white T-shirt may appear somewhat the same. But anyone who has endured an ill-fitting top knows that this is not the case. “Something too tight or boxy can throw off your whole silhouette,” says Patterson—especially if you had a different shape in mind. She recommends determining what works for you—“Cropped or long? Fitted of boxy?"—before you hit purchase.
Another tip: Pay attention to shoulder seams. There’s nothing worse than sleeves that cut off too high or cling to the arms uncomfortably. To avoid this, consider a drop shoulder—it gives your plain white T-shirt an all-around breathable, boxy finish. If you’re looking to add some zhuzh, stylist Tania Tonello suggests shirts with subtle design add-ons, like rolled sleeves and raw hems. “Those details bring a little personality,” she says.
Take weight into account
Some shirt are sheer under natural light, so if you’re after opacity, Tonello suggests taking note of the fabric, make and quality. “A plain white T-shirt might look great on the hanger but feel scratchy [or] thin, or lose its shape quickly if the material isn’t durable,” she says.
“A slightly thicker mid-weight fabric offers better coverage and holds its shape,” Patterson adds. To find that breathable, non-clingy balance, look for one hundred per cent natural cotton tops. If you’re more into stretch, consider a cotton-spandex blend. Just be sure to take note of whether the cotton shirt is pre-shrunk. If it’s not, you can end up a size smaller after one wash.
Think about length
Do you want the shirt to fall just below your high-waisted jeans? Should it hit above your hips? Are you planning to style it under a cropped cardigan? These are the questions to consider. If layering is what you’re after, opt for a slimmer, lightweight silhouette. (Bunching under a blazer is not ideal.) If you’re hoping to pull of a slight tuck, pick a shirt that falls beneath your waistband.
Invest in longevity
It may be tempting to buy a bargain ten-pack and call it a day. But two shirts that fit really well are better than a closet full of just-okay ones. “A cheap tee might seem like a steal, but it’ll lose shape, pill, or become see-through after a few washes,” cautions Patterson.
If you’re shopping in person, she recommends the “stretch test” to determine quality. Gently stretch a small section of the fabric on the body and see how quickly it bounces back. “If it stays warped or feels overly elastic, it’s likely lower quality or blended with too much synthetic fibres,” she says. “A good quality T-shirt will have some give but return to its shape without sagging.”
Below, some timeless styles to get you started.
Boxy
A classic for a reason. The right boxy tee is genderless, chic and crisply-tailored for a wear-anywhere effect.
Slim-fitting
The ideal pick for layering under blazers and lightweight dresses. Don’t confuse figure-hugging with restrictive—the latter, these are not.
Cropped
Whether it’s an errand-running uniform or the basis of a night-out outfit, a cropped plain white T-shirt runs the gamut from simple to sexy.
Natalie Michie is the style editor at FASHION Magazine. With a pop culture obsession, she is passionate about exploring the relationship between fashion, internet trends and social issues. She has written for Elle Canada, CBC, Chatelaine and Toronto Life. In her spare time, she enjoys reading and over-analyzing movies on TikTok.
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