In Theory: Our Q&A with Olivier Theyskens

Olivier Theyskens
Olivier Theyskens

A visit to a designer showroom is often missing one significant presence: the designer. Some dash out of town soon after their show for a much-needed rest. Others just prefer to leave dealing with buyers and media to the sales and press teams. But when Theory launched its collaboration with Olivier Theyskens in Paris during the spring ready-to-wear shows, the designer was right there, taking visitors through the collection and happily sitting down to chat about his designs for Theyskens’ Theory. The cool jackets, easy tops and fluid trousers were so well received that Theory offered the Belgian-born designer a permanent gig as artistic director.  That must have come as a welcome relief after rocky stints at Nina Ricci and Rochas, where the calibre of his work was never in doubt. Theyskens’ Theory can be found at select Holt Renfrew stores across Canada, TNT in Toronto and online at ssense.com.

Read our interview with Olivier Thyskens here. »


Olivier Theyskens
Left: top, $195, and pants, $130, both by Theyskens’ Theory. Shoes, $695, by Walter Steiger. Bangles, from $13, all from Winners. Right-hand ring, $335, by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. Left-Hand ring, $155, by Dean Davidson. Right: top, $195, and pants, $425, both by Theyskens’ Theory. Shoes, $695, and necklace, price on request, both by Giuseppe Zanotti Design. Right-hand ring, $335, by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. Left-hand ring, $285, by Dean Davidson.

What was your starting point for Theyskens’ Theory?

The minute I put Theory next to my name, it inspired me to do all the things in my own closet that I love. Like the jeans, the T-shirts. These are generic things, but I wanted to do them with creativity and quality. Being able to  do this has pleased me so much.”

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Olivier Theyskens
Vest, $625, top, $90, and skirt, $425, all by Theyskens’ Theory. Bangles, prices on request, all by Giuseppe Zanotti Design.

There are a lot of X motifs in the collection—an X is knit into the back of a ribbed pullover and appears in pointelle in a fine knit tank. Why?

It seems that when I was designing the collection there was a lot of crossing—the crossing of my name with Theory, the crossing of roads, the V that I cut out in the back of my jacket necks. It just seemed appropriate.”

Yes, that cut-out makes a V-shaped gap in the collar at the nape of the neck. Is there a purpose for that?

That is a very personal thing that I do to all my jackets. I always cut my jackets to open at the back, but you don’t see it because of my hair. I did it here too because it pushes the clothes forward to give a suit or jacket a rock-y attitude.

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Olivier Theyskens
Olivier Theyskens

Why is that rock ’n’ roll look important to you?

It’s not that I want to look like a singer in a band. That’s too obvious. But a bit of that feeling gives a cool attitude. Whenever I see musicians or someone travelling with a guitar on their back, I think, “That’s so cool.”

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Olivier Theyskens
Coat, $895, by Theyskens’ Theory. Right-hand rings, $335 each, both by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. Left-hand ring, $285, by Dean Davidson.

Does the fact that you slit all your jackets at the neck mean that you will never cut your hair?

I have had super short hair. In fact, I have gone back and forth between short hair and long hair since I was a child. So I may cut it again.

To read the rest of our interview with Olivier, pick up a copy of our April issue, on stands now.

Photography by Felix Wong; Styling by Caitlan Moneta. Hair and makeup by Grace Lee for Plutino Group/Tresemmé Hair Care/Giorgio Armani Cosmetics.

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