From the unstoppable Courtin-Clarins girls to the out-of-control Proenza Schouler show, we count the top 10 trends and moments of New York Fashion Week
As I get ready to hand the reigns over to Rebecca Tay for her coverage of London Fashion Week, let’s take a moment to digest what went down this week in New York. From the top trends developing to some of the best moments, I attempt to break it down in an orderless top 10:
1. The cinematic soundtrack: Fashion, as always, is a symptom of what’s around us, and the beats on the speakers at the shows were as good a judge as any. From the Downton Abbey theme at Ralph Lauren, to the Drive soundtrack EVERYWHERE, to Lana Del Rey at Tommy Hilfiger, the scene was everywhere to be seen and heard.
2. Red: It was everywhere—and I mean everywhere—in full spectrum. From its bright primary hue on full-length gowns and fur-collared overcoats at Michael Kors, to the slightly orange tinge on collared dresses at Marc by Marc Jacobs, to the oxblood leather motojackets at Diesel Black Gold, to the rich wine leather and fur–combo coats at DKNY. And so on. And so on.
3. Proenza Schouler: Jack and Lazaro always turn out a top-notch collection, but this tough-girl trip to the East—complete with bird brocades on silk varsity jackets—was truly something else. Maybe it was being there that put me over the gushy edge, but what can I say, I’m a biased girl!
4. The Courtin-Clarins girls: New York Magazine called them “It times four,” and I call them my new obsessions. Courted by Anna Wintour, and perched front row at every show from Jason Wu to Altuzarra, sisters Claire and Virginie, and their cousins Jenna and Prisca (oh, what a name!) are the industry’s latest gazelle fixations. Claire became my own personal favourite when she wore a floral scrunchie to the Tommy Hilfiger show. Because she really just didn’t have to care.
5. Angora: For as itchy as this fabric is and always will be, fluffy angora sweaters appeared in every colour from baby blue to bright fuchsia on the runways at Thakoon, Rebecca Taylor, and Karen Walker, to name a few.
6. Death at a fashion show: By now, you’ve heard of the untimely passing of 95-year-old socialite Zelda Kaplan at the Joanna Mastroianni show. Or maybe it wasn’t so untimely? While death at any age is sad, we’re thinking that 95 years lived by this awesome lady must have been lived quite well. If you’ve gotta go, why not do it the most fashionable way?
7. Zippers: Thought there was one way to do up a jacket? Think again. Designers this week seemed to reinvent the zipper, from its centre-back placement at Jeremy Laing, to its peplum-ifying at 3.1 Phillip Lim, to its double up, even triple up at Lacoste.
8. The Calvinator: To match the serious, structured, Lisbeth Salander–esque collection (Rooney Mara sat front row), a drone-like camera followed really close to models throughout Thursday’s Calvin Klein Collection show. So close in fact, that it almost smacked Harper’s Bazaar editor-in-chief Glenda Bailey right in the face, giving it the name “The Calvinator” by another editor seated in our section.
9. Bondage: After a one-season hiatus, that naughty after-hours feel ushered back by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Fall 2011 is back with a vengeance. At Prabal Gurung, models donned PVC, chokers, and reinvented officers caps. At Alexander Wang, their faces were partly inhibited by loosely woven sweaters that stretched across the chin. At Hervé Léger, harnesses were worn over strict bodycon dresses, with horsewhips displayed alongside.
10. Brocade: No longer for grannies (though they can still wear it if they’d like), brocades came alive this week by way of unique reinvention at Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler, L’Wren Scott, and Derek Lam.