Vanilla Fragrances Are So Back

In this world, nothing is certain except death and taxes. In the fragrance world, the certainty is vanilla.

It feels like every perfume house is putting out its own version of a vanilla-forward scent, with many even including the note in the name: Vanilla Era, Vanilla Powder, Vanilla Skin... the list goes on. A quick scan of Sephora’s shelves will tell you it carries 10 recently launched fragrances featuring “vanilla” in the name. But this wasn’t always the case.

Until just a few years ago, vanilla, as well as the gourmand category it belongs to (perfumes that smell edible), was a repellent idea to many. “Back in the day, it was often linked to overly sweet, youth-oriented scents,” explains Mona Kattan, the founder of Kayali, a perpetually trending fragrance brand with no fewer than five scents based on the note.

“Historically, gourmands were associated more with novelty than timeless appeal,” says Tara Darlington, director of fine-fragrance marketing at Swiss fragrance manufacturer Givaudan. (Think of the brand Dessert by Jessica Simpson, which launched in 2004 with a line of sticky-sweet edible lotions, perfumes and cosmetics.) But, in fact, timelessness and comfort are the very things that have helped drive these types of scents back into the spotlight.

Just a few years ago, when a global pandemic kept us all inside our homes for months on end, we sought out softness and warmth anywhere we could find it. This led some to think more deeply about their relationship with fragrance and to spritz themselves and their living spaces with scents that brought them a sense of ease when everything else felt so uncertain.

“The pandemic consumer found themselves reaching for a more comforting scent experience,” says Nathalie Benareau, the master perfumer behind fragrances from brands like Mind Games, Commodity and Phlur. “Vanilla is just that — it wraps wearers in warmth.”

And that obsession has continued post-pandemic. Globally, the home-fragrance market was reportedly worth more than $15 billion in 2023, with a projected annual compound growth rate of 9 per cent from 2024 to 2030. A sense of familiarity and comfort may be behind this growth, and what’s more comforting than nostalgia?

“For many of us, vanilla was a staple in our lives— especially in the 2000s, when sweet, dessert-scented products were everywhere,” says Kattan. “This created a nostalgic association.”

Fashion and beauty trends are often direct responses to what’s happening culturally and politically, and the pandemic recontextualizing vanilla from a juvenile afterthought into the industry’s biggest trend is a perfect case study. Take the argument that the negative association with the note had less to do with its scent and more with its proximity to youth and the urgency we once felt to separate ourselves from it. In the height of the 2010s, hustle culture saw people taking pride in working around the clock and girlboss-ing 24/7. Fast-forward to the present day and self-care is the priority. Therapy speak is fired off as casually as a text, and everyone seems to be healing their inner child.

Today, sweet scents have come back bigger than ever as a creature comfort we’re proud to embrace. But today’s vanilla is not the same one we knew growing up.

“Its reputation has undergone a major transformation in modern fragrances,” says Kattan. “Today’s notes are far more sophisticated and nuanced, moving beyond the simple ultra-sweet options of the past. They’ve been reimagined into something truly elegant. At Kayali, to make vanilla the star of the show, we blend it with rich, complex ingredients that highlight its depth and versatility.” Often, the saccharine note is paired with ambery woods, musks or patchouli to balance out its sweetness. The result? Layered scents that are more reminiscent of a five-star hotel lobby than the back of your high-school-prom limo.

Olivier Cresp, the founder of Akro and one of the creators of Mugler’s Angel, the 1992 scent credited for birthing the modern gourmand, as well as scents from Nina Ricci, Dior, Emporio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent, agrees that vanilla is always evolving and is as boundless as your imagination.

“There used to be a lot of perfumes made with vanilla, but it was synthetic, such as vanillin,” he says. “Today, we use absolute vanilla from Madagascar or Tahiti and, above all, we work with new methods of extraction. This allows us to obtain very powerful, sparkling notes that are not at all sticky. They are more leathery and spicy and very uplifting.”

Some of these methods are also more sustainable, reducing energy consumption and the use of common solvents while still producing a high-quality vanilla scent. If vanilla’s new era has created a fresh appreciation for sweet scents — both for their smell and the feelings they evoke — just imagine what other scents we have yet to embrace.

Once we separated the scent from its stigma, we found a collective obsession that put us in touch with our past selves and allowed us to enjoy the things we like without feeling self-conscious about them. What might fragrance’s next frontier be?

We’re starting to see the rise of savoury and vegetal scents, thanks to tomato-, fennel- and coriander-scented perfumes. Personalized fragrances that are created by AI are also becoming a reality. Perhaps next we’ll be using elements of our own body chemistry to create a scent that will redefine the idea of a “signature scent.”

Just imagine what else is out there, waiting for us right under our nose.

Burberry Goddess Eau de Parfum Intense

A more intense version of last year’s Goddess, which featured three different types of vanilla, Goddess Intense features the inclusion of a fourth—vanilla wood—which gives it a deeper, smoky character.

Billie Eilish Eilish Eau de Parfum

With notes of sugared petals, mandarin, warm berries, cocoa and creamy vanilla, this is a gourmand lover’s dream scent.

Tom Ford Vanilla Sex Eau de Parfum

The vanilla perfume that broke the internet when it launched, Vanilla Sex is a warm gourmand featuring notes of vanilla tincture, vanilla absolute and sandalwood.

Boy Smells Vanilla Era Eau de Parfum

An earthy and floral scent with notes of vanilla absolute, white tulips, black amber and coffee, this is an addictive take on the sweet trend.

Phlur Vanilla Skin Eau de Parfum

With notes of vanilla, sandalwood, pink pepper and jasmine, Vanilla Skin is a sweet and decadent fragrance that is hard to resist.

Maison Margiela Replica Afternoon Delight Eau de Toilette

This creamy, unisex scent is formulated with notes of Madagascar vanilla, madeleine accord and sandalwood, for an indulgent finish.

Kayali Vanilla 28 Eau de Parfum

Balanced with notes of musk, amber, patchouli, and brown sugar, Vanilla 28’s rich vanilla orchid scent is multidimensional and well-rounded.

Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder Eau de Parfum

This is a blend of white Palo Santo wood, dark vanilla, and creamy coconut that will guarantee a ton of compliments.

The Maker Dream Eau de Parfum

With notes of vanilla bourbon, cinnamon butter, amber, magnolia and sandalwood, this decadent gourmand is a creamy and irresistible addition to any winter scent wardrobe.

Henry Rose Dave Eau de Parfum

Formulated with notes of chantilly vanilla, tonka bean and cocoa shell, Dave is a cozy and comforting gourmand that can convert even the biggest vanilla skeptics.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2025 issue. Find out more here.