How to Choose a Unique Engagement Ring, According to a Jewellery Expert

Looking for a unique spin on the classic engagement ring? From multi-stone designs to colourful gems, jewellery expert Megan Kirkwood explains everything you need to know when buying a non-traditional engagement ring.

Q: How can I get the look of a classic engagement ring without having to stick to the traditional diamond solitaire?

A: When copywriter Frances Gerety wrote the slogan “A Diamond Is Forever” for then client De Beers in 1947, it not only went on to become one of the most famous and long-used tag lines of all time (it’s been used by De Beers for most of the past 75 years) but also changed the way we think of engagements...well...forever. Before this, engagement rings — not to mention those with a sizable diamond — were actually reserved for very few people. Now, after decades of diamond-solitaire engagement rings feeling like the norm, many are looking for something that feels a little more personal and unique— which is fair, considering that every relationship is one of a kind.

One of the biggest trends in recent years has been the romantic toi et moi ring — a two-stone design that represents “you and me.” The style was re-popularized by model and author Emily Ratajkowski in 2018, who recently made headlines once again for redesigning the double-diamond ring into two separate “divorce rings” (which, let’s face it, will likely have their own following).

However, the two-stone ring is actually a historic style; it was even chosen as an engagement ring by Napoleon for the future Empress Joséphine and John F. Kennedy for the future Mrs. Jackie Kennedy. The look has endless opportunities for personalization (another likely reason why it has skyrocketed in popularity) as you can mix and match the colour, shape and carat size of the two gemstones of your choice for your own unique combination. You can apply a similar customization idea to other multi-stone engagement-ring styles, whether it’s a classic three-stone or a chic eternity band.

Consider that injecting some colour into your engagement ring design doesn’t necessarily have to revolve around your birthstone. If you’re not a fan of your own (it happens!), there are plenty of other personal ways to enjoy coloured gems, whether you choose the birthstone of your fiancé or another important person in your life or even the stone that represents the month you met or got engaged.

Of course, any gemstone can make for a stunning engagement ring, and you shouldn’t limit yourself — whether it be a gem that comes in any colour of the rainbow, such as sapphire, tourmaline or garnet, or a rare jewel that is sure to turn heads, like alexandrite, tanzanite or spinel.

Keep in mind that some gems are softer and less tough than others. (The former refers to how easily a gem can be scratched, while the latter is how easily it can fracture in the face of impact.) Diamond, sapphire and ruby are the hardest and safest bets for daily wear, while anything around 7 or 8 on the Mohs hardness scale (a centuries-old qualitative measurement), including tourmaline, garnet, morganite, aquamarine and emerald, can still be a good choice but will require a little extra diligence. Softer stones, at 6 or below, such as tanzanite, pearl and opal, will require the most mindfulness and should be kept in a safe place during any precarious activities.

A great way to protect softer stones is to choose a bezel-style setting — a design that has become increasingly popular for its more contemporary style. While yellow gold seems to be the metal of choice for this look, you can also consider rose gold or white metals or even a luxe mix of both. Since the metal wraps around the entire perimeter (also known as the bezel) of the gem, it leaves it considerably less vulnerable to chipping and other wear and tear. For an even more modern approach, consider a flush mount, where the stone is set completely flush with the band of the ring. It’s an especially chic option for a multi-stone design or an inspired twist on the classic solitaire.

Set in Stones

Don’t be afraid to cement your relationship status with a token of love that speaks more personally to you and your S.O.

David Yurman 18 Karat White Gold, Tanzanite and Diamond Ring

Bulgari 18 Karat Yellow Gold, Aquamarine, Pink Tourmaline, Amethyst and Diamond Ring

Michael Hill 10 Karat Rose Gold and Morganite Ring

Anne Sportun 18 Karat Yellow Gold, Pink Sapphire and Ruby Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum, Blue Sapphire and Diamond Ring

Pandora 14 Karat White Gold and Lab-Grown Diamond Ring

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Tsavorite Garnet and Diamond Ring

Brilliant Earth 14 Karat Rose Gold, Morganite and Pink Tourmaline Ring

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September 2024 issue. Find out more here.