The Puma Speedcat Is the New It Shoe

Have you ever felt personally victimized by a pair of Adidas Sambas? Perhaps you’ve been at a concert, on the sidewalk, or frequenting your local grocery store and found yourself surrounded by an astonishing amount of Sambas, only to look down in horror at your own. In recent years, the ubiquitous “It” shoe has been nearly inescapable, solidifying itself as a streetwear uniform and even being accused of homogenizing personal style. But after maintaining a persistent reign for seasons on end, the hype over Sambas is finally being redirected towards a different sneaker: the Puma Speedcat.

The two-toned design, with its low-cut, flat-soled silhouette and streamlined appearance, has been sneakily securing itself at the centre of the footwear zeitgeist for some time. It’s been co-signed by Jennifer Lawrence, Dua Lipa and Troye Sivan. Street style icon Emily Ratajkowski has been the greatest early endorser of the shoe — wearing it with everything from chore coats and slacks to sexy all-black going-out looks. (Brave!)

Most recently, shopping research platform Lyst named it the hottest sneaker du jour — bumping Sambas from the top spot. Suddenly, the style is all sold out at Puma, and supplies at third-party retailers are going incredibly fast. Its bright red colourway, in particular, has become the highly coveted default. How did this distinctly sleek, suede shoe — which is arguably less versatile than the simple Samba — come to be fashion’s favourite trainer? Our growing fascination with sports surely has something to do with it.

Specifically, the monumental rise of F1 — and its moto-core aesthetics — has led to an increased appetite for racetrack-ready apparel. The Puma Speedcat is arguably the best place to start. Directly inspired by the styles of the grand prix, the shoe’s first iteration was introduced in the ‘80s. But the Speedcat as it looks today, with its low-top style and stamped-on white logo, was created in 1998 as a fireproof shoe for Formula 1 drivers. It went on sale to the public a year later without flame-retardant properties, and by the 2000s, it graduated from sports-gear to streetwear. Twenty years later, its design remains virtually the same — and it’s popularity has never been higher.

Dua Lipa for Puma Speedcat pic.twitter.com/Tfthg2fMNI

— dua-lipa.uk (@DuaFansite) November 4, 2024

Of course, this astronomical rise has also been met with criticism. Its has been called "ugly" by InStyle and “freaky” by GQ. For some prospective shoppers, its suede fabrication is cause for pause. (Because the luxe leather material is prone to getting dirty, it’s an everyday shoe that requires a little extra care.) Not to mention, the search “Are Puma Speedcats ugly?” has over 14 million posts on TikTok, which, optics-wise, is not great. But perhaps this contention makes it the perfect choice as the next It sneaker.

In many ways, the Puma Speedcat is fundamentally different from the Adidas Samba. The latter, with its round-toe shape, practical gum sole and three-stripes design, is more low-key and digestible than the brilliant red hue of the Speedcat. Because it’s somewhat unusual to begin with, it brings a subversive freshness to the universe of top-tier trainers. As Nathan Taylor Pemberton noted in GQ, the Samba became so ubiquitous that it lost all meaning. In its viral ascent, the Samba didn’t know what it stood for, Pemberton argues. But the Speedcat surely does.

Rooted in utilitarian demand, there’s something about its age-old status that makes it all the more admirable. This is a shoe that’s not trying to pander to the public. It’s both utilitarian and playful. Durable but dainty. At its core, it represents the best kind of fashion evolution; one that was born from a natural need and has always stayed true to itself. Go sports!

Whether you’re a die-hard sports fan or your idea of game-day starts and ends with the Yankees episode in Sex and the City, the Puma Speedcat is a race-track ready style for the everyman. Pictured here in black, the lace-up shoe is selling fast. Luckily, it’s available now (in limited quantities) on Amazon.