Toronto Fashion Week: Lucian Matis goes back to his effusively-embellished roots for fall

LUCIAN MATIS Fall 2010. Photography by Jenna Marie Wakani

Not that I would have expected a simple camel coat from the likes of Lucian Matis, but after a week–or really, two months–of restrained, neutral taste, Matis’ no-holds-barred embellishment was something of a breath of fresh air. To be sure, Matis’ more-is-more-is-more style isn’t for everyone–certainly not for shrinking violets–and the dress-filled show (Matis saves separates for his Daphne by Lucian Matis line, sold on The Shopping Channel) leaves the over-the-top party-goer with plenty of options.

For his fall collection, Matis took a dip into his Romanian heritage and came out with high necklines, peasant tops and vests and folkloric detailing. Best were pieces done in Matis-designed prints that looked like the interior of a treasure chest, especially a short, one-shoulder number that featured an exaggerated pouf. A column gown done in the same print, laid out in a way that brought to mind–distantly–the alien patterns at Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2010 show, would have been better without an overpowering black shoulder bow. A crinkled leather jacket with embellished sleeves will be easier to wear day to day, paired up with a T-shirt and one of the show’s necklaces, created with Matis by jewellery designer Karen McFarlane and replete with fur and glittering balls and chains and gleaming black beads.

See the full collection after the jump.