Toronto: Biddell and Lucian Matis Fall 2009

There was a surfeit of sporty, multi-zip jackets, from bikers to bombers and even a hooded capelet. Pants were drop-crotch, but not the slinky harem styles of recent trend reports; Biddell’s are stiff and boyish, with cool cargo pockets. (And in a putty colour, paired with zip vest and jersey, looked supremely wearable.) The jumpsuit made a requisite appearance too: sleeveless and nearly shapeless, it came (like everything) layered heavily with black knits. Hoods abounded, but another signature--the outsize cowl neck--was replaced by ropey coils of a long wool scarf.

It wouldn’t be Biddell without a bizarro graphic print or two, worked into otherwise sophisticated pieces. We’ll ignore those. Instead, watch out for a couple of bold frocks that proved to be instant fan favourites. For party girls, a chartreuse cocktail mini--all major draping and folding down the front--will play nicely with embellished tights. And Lanvin lovers like us will line up for a black-belted, aubergine shift with padded hips and one puffed mutton sleeve.

Extra, extra: Project Runway alum and maximalist dressmaker Lucian Matis has been reading the headlines (well, those, or his last season’s reviews). He’s shed (most of) his ruffles for a more sober, contemplative, yet still romantic, vision of the modern woman. Perhaps one inspired by Comrags? The same rich-earth palette and styling touches applied, not to mention all that wood-nymph hair (though he couldn’t resist adding antlers--oh, Canada!).

Prints were very Secret Garden, accents came subtly in rusted metallic and pencil skirts (some with twisted volume) carried the day. For evening, inky satin ruled. A tall dark column of a gown, embellished and asymmetrically strapped, was the best of his last looks. Though really, all of it was fit for Diana -- not the princess, but the mythological huntress among Greek gods.

LUCIAN MATIS | ALL FALL 2009