They said/We said: Is Maison Martin Margiela going to be H&M’s next designer collaboration?

Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter

In news that will undoubtedly set many fashion hearts aflutter, H&M’s next collaboration is rumoured to be with none other than the Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela.

Though WWD admitted that the Swedish retail giant has neither confirmed nor denied the rumours, they said they have it on good authority that H&M will be announcing the one-off holiday collection collaboration “soon.”

Most of H&M’s early collaborations have been with high-profile designers like Karl Lagerfeld or Donatella Versace, but at the same time, it seems like the retailer has been focusing on industry favourites with less of a mass-market presence, like Lanvin or Marni.

The notoriously publicity-shy Martin Margiela studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts alongside the legendary and visionary Antwerp Six (which included Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester). Like Commes des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo and his Antwerp classmates, Margiela focused on conceptual work rather than mass-appeal pieces (case in point: the cleft-toed boot).

What will be interesting about the Margiela collaboration is that its namesake creator isn’t even in the design business anymore after having walked out on the label in 2009. With no one left at the helm, a team of designers has been working together to carry on Margiela’s trademark aesthetic since his departure.

If the rumours are true (and they probably are, given that WWD didn’t hesitate to break the news), one thing’s for certain: whoever is working the launch day for the collection will be in for a real doozy thanks to MMM’s cult-like following.


Ariel Foxman, editor, InStyle: “It IS a good morning: WWD reporting on a possible collaboration btw H&M and Margiela for the holidays #amazing” [Twitter]

Tony King, luxury brand strategist: “H&M Collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela isn’t a good idea. Some brands are best left alone.” [Twitter]


Eliza Grossman, assistant fashion editor: “The possibility of this collaboration is exciting. The Maison Martin Margiela aesthetic would offer the H&M customer something completely new. While I’m interested in the potential collaboration, I’m even more excited to see how they may execute an advertising campaign.”