TFW Diary: Lucian Matis takes to the Royal York for the debut of his festooned fall collection

Photography by Jenna Marie Wakani
Photography by Jenna Marie Wakani

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A grand ballroom festooned with gilded details at the Fairmont Royal York is very fitting for Toronto’s king of embellishment, Lucian Matis. But this fall, the Romanian-born designer ditched his signature crystal palace pieces for a more grown-up approach (think streamlined silhouettes and gorgeous lace) to dressing.

Inspired by details found in nature–butterfly markings, volcanic shapes–Matis centered his Fall 2012 collection around intricate lacework, texture-mixing and sharp, tailored lines. Standouts included the glam lace gown with the plunging neckline and Angelina Jolie–approved slit, the sweeping maxi coat (we’re still crushing on those detailed cuffs) and the mini dress with lacey side panels. Toward the show’s end, Matis did indulge his maximalist side with a small grouping of fine, feathered frocks, including one strapless version with a plumed train fit for any bird of paradise. The one misstep of the night? The paper-white pasties used to cover up the models which shone a little too brightly from underneath the sheer lace.