I Wore Bubble Hems for a Week

I’m of the mind that bubbles make everything better. Sparkling Lambrusco is much more fun to sip than a dry red. Taking a sud-filled bath is superior to soaking in still, tepid water. And how does one know when a loaf of freshly baked focaccia has reached airy, buttery perfection? Bubbles, baby! But can the addition of fizziness have the same positive effect on fashion? The return of the bubble hem begs this question.

With its more-is-more ‘80s nostalgia and frou-frou prom-queen associations, the bubble hem has long been viewed as a maximalist memento of the past. But in recent seasons, the divisive puff has become undeniably du jour.

Khaite managed to put a refined spin on the trend with crisp tailoring and minimal black accessories and sunglasses (above). Miu Miu had a playful take via vibrant colourways and busy printed-on graphics (below). Schiaparelli served serious drama in exaggerated couture shapes, while in-the-know cool girl labels like Aknvas and Allina Liu have delivered skillfully crafted mini-dresses with swollen silhouettes.

Then there’s the celebrity fashion. Stars such as Rosalía, Ayo Edebiri, Sabrina Carpenter and Kylie Jenner have also co-signed the trend, each looking expertly at ease and not at all outdated.

To the untrained eye, it may feel random — but the trend did not bubble up from nowhere. Clothes have been inflating for some time, and for good reason. As the world becomes increasingly uncertain, the unnatural proportions of bubbled-up garments add a whimsical futurism to the act of getting dressed. Not to mention, padded wares exude security and protection in an otherwise volatile time.

But unlike Mschf’s cartoonish Big Red Boots or the Pope’s overwhelmingly oversized AI puffer jacket, there’s nothing remotely menacing about the age-old bubble hem. On the contrary, with its fold-under tufts and built-in retro sentimentality, it has an effervescent effect that brings a smile to your face. So, for a week, I decided to adopt it into my wardrobe.

Of course, there are risks with an experiment such as this. What if I accidentally veered into deflated balloon territory — or worse, diaper domain? Could it appear lumpy and lopsided instead of modishly avant-garde? Would the departure from my usual streamlined skirts make me look... just kinda messy? There was only one way to find out.

Day 1: Mango

To begin, I wanted to lean into the style’s unmistakable balletcore aesthetic, and the Mango store in Toronto’s Eaton Centre had the perfect red mini-dress to do so. I sized up for a slightly looser fit, which helped ease me into the playful proportions while still channeling a delicate dancer. I paired it with Fenty’s red lipstick, lace-up sneakers by Ecco, a woven black tote and a matching headband for good measure. A tad done up for a Monday lunch meeting? Perhaps. But this is research, after all.

As I settled onto the Toronto streetcar, I was admittedly struck by a sense of self-consciousness. Surrounded by tailored suits and monochrome athleisure sets, I felt overdressed — and a little over-eager — in my voluminous ensemble. But then I thought: What’s so wrong about trying?

Later that evening, I decided to sport my scarlet ensemble to my happy place: the grocery store. In a time when many things are out of my control, I’ve come to view supermarket shopping as a soothing act of self-care. The aesthetically-pleasing well-organized aisles! The possibility of a meet-cute! The deliciously comforting scents from the bakery! While selecting a cabbage in the produce section, I sensed the weight of lingering eyes, but having already spent the day outside of my comfort zone, the attention didn’t phase me. As someone who loves to be delusional, this piece helped me romanticize the mundane.

While the exact Mango dress is currently sold out, you can familiarize yourself with bubble hem energy via another other Mango pick that has all the frothy volume without the tucked-under bottom.

Day 2: Dynamite

For my second day of testing bubble hems, I upped the ante in a white bubble dress with more exaggerated proportions. Featuring a tight-fitting drop-waist silhouette, the Dynamite number hugged my torso before flouncing out rather unapologetically at my hips.

On my way to celebrate the launch of Seagram’s new cocktails, my punchy outfit felt on-theme for a fête honouring drinks containing 13 per cent alcohol. Held at a historic mansion in Toronto’s west end, there was a video game room, a candy bar corner and a space with a tarot reader (the contents of which will be fictionalized for later use).

Circling through the event space, I felt surprisingly comfortable in the body-con look. (The image of diapers never once entering my mind.) Perhaps it was the dress’s stretch fabric or the flattering sweetheart neckline, but this decidedly outré choice was an instant confidence booster.

Day 3: Free People

At this point, I was armed with two-days of bubble hem experience and a highly specific dress code to follow. Attending a book exchange held by Toronto community-building collective Between Space, I was instructed to channel ethereal, romantic and renaissance themes while getting dressed, and Free People’s bubble hem maxi-skirt was just the ticket.

Worn alongside a corset top with balloon sleeves and my Poppy Barley champagne-coloured flats, I felt quite Ren-Faire-coded. The bubble silhouette of the sleeves created satisfying symmetry with the skirt’s billowing bottom, while its slight drop-waist design gave it a contemporary coolness.

If you have bubble hem trepidation, this piece is the perfect entry-point. It’s unique and eccentric, but long enough to avoid any helium-related comparisons. (The pictured pink style has sadly sold out, but green and white iterations are still available to shop.)

Day 4: Aritzia

Now finding my groove in my bubble hem journey, I felt I couldn’t go wrong in this Aritzia bubble skirt. With a midi length and a lightweight poplin fabric, it offered a smooth feel and long-lasting wearability. It is my journalistic duty to let you know that the day I wore this, there was a historic storm in Toronto, leading to flooding, power outages and a general sense of panic. (Not exactly the best circumstances for taking a style risk.)

Still, I persisted — pairing it with a tight tube top, my favourite pair of Sorel heels and a minimal Cos bag. Venturing out to a work event, this skirt kept me comfortable for an hour in traffic and feeling refreshed when I finally decided to hop out of the Uber and walk the rest of the way through post-storm city humidity. A skirt for the girlies who sweat!

Leaving the gathering after a generous helping of cake, the stretchy ruched waistband offered even more comfort on my way home. How does one turn a nightmarish scenario into a pretty fun experience? I believe the answer is this skirt.

Day 5: Reformation

To finish off the week, I wore the black bubble hem dress of my dreams. This Reformation full-length gem is refined, polished and fun as can be. Its open-back detailing channels summertime playfulness while its boat neckline offers a sophisticated finish.

Arguably the most understated of the bunch, this piece mixes the minimalism of the moment with the outré appeal of voluminous hems. The full skirt was billowy and bouncy, while still feeling simple and chic. Worn on a Friday night out in Toronto’s trendy Ossington neighbourhood, I felt all-around at ease in my new frothy style identity. Not to mention, it passed the ultimate sartorial litmus test: Even my fervently anti-trend friend said she would wear this. I’d consider that a success.

In conclusion: No one can pop my bubble!

So much of being considered “cool” in fashion involves looking like you don’t care. Bubble hem outfits, I’ve come to find, shatter that constructed illusion. Throughout the days-long experience, I definitely felt a sense of added attention when I stepped out in each inflated frock. Choosing to channel a retro prom queen came with its challenges, but more than anything, it taught me that looking like you put in effort is freeing and in fact not at all cringe.

In a bubble hem ensemble, I needn’t explain who I am trying to be. Instead, you understand that I am someone who gives things a try. Who likes to have fun. Who brings whimsy to her wardrobe, even if it sometimes feels weird. During my week of voluminous hems, lasting styling inspiration bubbled up to the surface.