Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013: Tuxes from Haider Ackermann, Dior and Givenchy, the return of shorts and more trend intel from this weekend
This is an Important Trend Bulletin from Paris. Spring 2013 will be known as the season of the tux. Variations on Le Smoking opened Lanvin, Dior and Givenchy—a major signifier since eveningwear is usually reserved for last part of a show. And you can pretty much bet we’ll be seeing tuxedoes tonight when Hedi Slimane unveils his first collection for the now-renamed Saint Laurent Paris.
The Dior tuxes ranged from narrow pantsuits to mini coatdresses. Riccardo Tisci’s for Givenchy had apron panels or one-sleeve tunic tops. And Haider Ackermann offered variations that were patterned, layered, crisply tailored… and SO fresh and elegant.
More vital Paris Fashion Week intel: Shorts, in all lengths and widths, are a bona fide alternative to pants and skirts. Boxy jackets and shirts are must-haves, and tunics and head to toe prints are NB too. Colourblocking and fabric-folding continue on from fall. The jumpsuit thing is not going away. And there has been a spate of loungy, bedroomy looks—like a slip dress split open over trousers at Haider Ackermann, even fur pumps that suggested fuzzy slippers at Celine.
Three other take-aways from over the weekend:
Rei Kawakubo’s 2D Comme des Garçons collection for Fall has influenced many for Spring 2013—see Lanvin’s flat satin dresses, Givenchy’s curved, slit sleeves and Maison Martin Margiela’s slanted geometry. (My favourite show so far—even though all I could think of was Dexter thanks to those plastic-lined walls!)
There really is a Chloé! Her actual name is Gaby Aghion, she is 91-years-old and she was wheeled out for a Chloé retrospective at the Palais de Tokyo. The spring collection, now designed by Clare Waight Keller, takes place this afternoon.
The chopped-off ballgowns that Raf Simons showed at Dior on Friday are a continuation of Dior’s couture collection, shown in July. Check out page 204 of our November issue to see the original Dior look in our special anniversary couture story shot in Paris this past summer!