Paris: Day four
By Sarah Casselman
Shown: Karl Lagerfeld Fall 2008. Photography by Peter Stigter.
Early start to the day, but somehow the lack of sleep is manageable, due to the prospect of seeing Kaiser Karl at Lagerfeld. Carine Roitfeld and photog Patrick Demarchelier are the last to be seated and then the show begins. Funny how suddenly, when the music starts and I see the models take the runway, sleep is the last thing on my mind. See photos from this show.
One ed called this line a vanity project, but I liked the chic black and white puttin’-on-the-Ritz palette. Lots of ’80s-inspired flirty ruffled minis, patent men’s lace-up shoes, oversized bow-ties (I am all about the bow-tie this season. Very sexy). Variations of mens suitings, pencil-thin trousers and oxford heels. Item to try for evening: black frock with crinoline. Just seeing it makes me want to be drinking Moёt and making eyes at a dashing young dude. Most wearable piece: fitted military-style coat. Cozy yet cool for any frosty winter day. Oh, and I have to mention the mini fedoras. Fall ’08 is going to be the season of the hat. Again!
Zoomed over to the Louvre for the next set of shows. Inhaled a bottle of extra-oxygenated water and a chocolate the size of a postage stamp. Like sky-high platforms, chocolate seems to be acceptable day or night. Mental note: must climb Eiffel Tower stairs to truly work off caloric consumption this week. Maybe that’s why the stair option is there…deep thoughts. On to Andrew Gn.
Lots of bib-front blouses, overall a very wearable (read: commercial) collection but at the end of the day, that is what brings in the euros, non? Loved the grey coat with the neck ruffle and poet blouses–very romantic. Jewels to covet: drop earrings, dark jewels on frocks. Ga ga for the bolero jacket with the pintuck-front detail. Drop-dead chic with a pair of drainpipe trousers. Hot colour alert: midnight blue. Accessory to wear next fall: large cuffs with jewels or stones. Must be worn Wonder Woman-style on each wrist. Vintage-inspired short fur jackets are perfect for every Canadian girl. Best look of the show: bib necklace on green gown. Perfect for a fabulous evening out. All that is missing is my man and my martini.
Akris Many pieces here feel the same as Andrew Gn–wearable and real world. Can see many of these safe but stylish camel sweater coats, suitings and sleeveless tunic dresses at Holts next fall. Must have: the over-the-knee suede boots. Very Pretty Woman sans call-girl mood. Long legs are a must though. Damn genetics! Loved the simple low knots in models’ hair, carefree and easy. Cheeks were slightly flushed a sheer rosy pink. Lots of tone-on-tone dressing–red suede coat, matching trousers and boots. Definitely makes those early morning meetings a lot easier to get to on time when closets are so matchy match. Fave item: large, ribbed capelet. Replaces the sweater over the shoulders for fall. Love, love, love.
Emanuel Ungaro Stepping inside Emanuel Ungaro means a veritable platter of celebs and socialites. I knew my obsession with the gossip weeklies would eventually pay off. Spotted in front row: Vivica Fox–tight, short purple dress with killer legs and shoes to match. NYC socialite and my girl crush of the week, Tinsley Mortimer, looking glossy with lots of big juicy ringlets–primping for the flashbulb frenzy surrounding her. Good show overall for designer Esteban Cortazar’s debut collection with the house. Very muted palette with a definite nature theme woven through. Cocoon coats with intricate neckpieces, ruffles and flounces (signature Ungaro), shots of bright pink paired with pale washes of grey–dreamy! Fabulous fringed pencil skirts, though the overall romantic theme was best displayed with the final look: pale pink frothiness with a romantic rosette. I left floating on air…
Dries Van Noten at the Palais Royal and quite the scene, and definitely my favourite collection so far…incredible prints and ring necklaces, fur-and-wool mixes, silk print jackets, fur coats layered with silk tunics and silk pants. Such an easy fluidity. Look to buy: bondage strap heels–mainly for the wanderlust rather than the actual walking. My personal best: multi-coloured cropped fur jacket. So chic. Accessory alert: structured caramel envelope oversized clutches. Bottom line: big love for Dries this season!
Ended off the day at Hussein Chalayan for a little art meets fashion. The live sound effects in the show mimicked running water, animal noises and anything else heard in nature. Models wore super-slick ponytails and get-up-and-go natural makeup. Lots of drainpipe trousers, ruched leather pants, drapey dresses with papoose-like details attached in front. Talk about the look of the yummy mummy. Over-the-top accent: the massive Wilma Flintstone-style boulder necklaces. Liked the stone print silk dresses best. True to arty form, Chalayan had two models appear in leotards and wired contraptions, and presto–the electronic wire skirt appeared. Entertainment rating: off the blooming charts.
Had a late dinner at Le Sporting with the Canadian contingent over here–a mix of other eds, stylists, designers (darling Jeremy Laing) and buyers. Good food (faux filet, yum!), good conversation (savage vs. lady theme this season) and good wine (though yours truly is on a water kick as I am not only sporting a cute new necklace from Le Printemps but also a terrible cold.) Oh mon dieu…xo
