Milan: Day two
By Susie Sheffman
Shown: Pringle of Scotland Fall 2008. Photography by Peter Stigter.
Seventeen hours in heels and still counting–now that’s a personal record for me! This is a marathon of a fashion week with an insanely jam-packed schedule that everyone is bitching about. I can barely recall the shows this morning, but seem to have a distant memory of mannish military inspiration and lots of lean leathers at Belstaff.
Ferretti showed jewel tones, accordion pleats, paillettes and soft volume. I traipsed through a couple of showrooms for a glimpse of Thakoon Panichgul’s capsule collection for Hogan and shoe gurus Jimmy Choo and Brian Atwood’s ultra-luxe bags and boots. Peter Pan pirate boots anyone?
On to Pringle of Scotland, where gutsy front-belted coats and swingy knits ruled along with still more jewel-toned taffeta. A definite trend here in Milan.
D&G was an adorable highland fling full of mixed tartan pantsuits, kilts, dirndls and ruffled chiffon. So great to see supermodels like Stam, Coco and Agyness looking super gorge, even if they did have kerchiefs tied under their chins! It was all very Queen Elizabeth-out-on-the hunt, and a complete turnaround from the usual over-sexed club fare this duo usually turn out! Loved it! See photos from this show.
Gianfranco Ferré‘s show promised more than the usual buzz in the wake of designer Lars Nilsson’s sudden pre-show departure–there was plenty of modern architectural Ferré classics, with a focus on origami folds and loose volume. Veteran model Guinevere Van Seenus was welcome opening-show eye candy, compared to all the super-scrawny, super-young models that are ruling the runways here.
Ran (in my heels) to Burberry for a gorgeous, super-luxe collection of intricate fabric and texture plays and more soft volume. Designer Christopher Bailey somehow makes it all look so slouchy and effortless. I want to be those girls! Loved the fabric paillettes and the finale’s autumn leaves falling from the sky! See photos from this show.
Last show of the day–Jil Sander. Very modern, clean and spare with just enough experimentation of panelling, wrapping, origami and obi techniques. Loved the huge cocooning collars and folded navy column gown.
It was already way past my bedtime, but couldn’t possibly pass up dinner with my gorgeous (inside and out) friend and fab PR girl, Maria Varvarikos Peart–delish! Promise you won’t tell my trainer about the tiramisu! We’ll talk more trends tomorrow. Ciao for now!
P.S.: I know it’s 3 a.m. but how could I forget to mention the highlight of my day–Richard Avedon’s phenomenal photo retrospective? Truly brilliant and inspirational. Flew in for a quick peek and was riveted. Photographer Gabor Jurina hit the nail on the head when he said, (referring to ’5Os models Dovima and Suzy Parker) “Now, those models were women!” Somehow have to get back there for a longer look.
