MFW diary: Tying the knot at Jil Sander and Emilio Pucci

Nurse Ratched meets Grace Kelly was the pure, clinical, and divinely graceful effect that Raf Simons’ stark-white cotton poplin bride had at Jil Sander. Always a standout collection, this was truly a highlight of the week. Architectural and pristine, the mid-century modern–inspired collection began and ended with palette cleansing white shirts in varying degrees of opacity and sheerness. Then out came the paisleys, the ginghams, and the knits (borrowed from Picasso’s ceramic motifs) the slim mid-calf skirts and discreet rhinestone brooches.

If Raf Simons explored the stark, clinical side of purity, Peter Dundas did a 180 and sent his infanta gypsy bride out at Emilio Pucci in a  portrait neck, empire-waist organza confection—appliqued, embroidered, beribboned, and bejeweled. His glossy gypsy girls breezed down the runway (à la Brigitte Bardot) in long billowing patchwork scarf–print skirts, scarf-belted Bermuda shorts, and micro bras with lacey lingerie touches.