The Ultimate Guide to Buying a Suit

Cary Grant, known for his impeccable style, once said of acting: “It takes 500 small details to add up to one favourable impression.” With so many variables, the same can be said for a well-made suit.

Buying the right one can feel overwhelming—especially if you’re not fluent in the jargon. Like cars and watches, a suit can be a significant purchase, and some salesmen may steer you toward what suits them, not you. You want to stay in the driver’s seat.

To decide, you don’t need to have studied under a master tailor—just consider where you’ll be wearing it. A finance job? A summer wedding? Do you need something that can do it all? Your answer should guide both the style and your budget.

For off-the-rack men’s suits, it can be tough to find something that looks great and lasts for under $500. Around $1,000, you’ll start seeing better construction, quality fabrics, and more fit options.

Here, we outline everything you need to know before buying a suit — from the foundations to finishing touches.

Fit is everything

Many guys fixate on fabric, but if it doesn’t fit, even the finest Loro Piana wool won’t save you. A good jacket should have enough room in the shoulders to move comfortably — but not so much that the lapels sag. Shoulders are one of the few areas that can’t be altered easily, so they need to fit right from the start.

The collar should lie flat against the back of your neck. If it puckers or forms ridges, the fit is off and likely unfixable. The jacket hem should meet the curve of your fingers if you cup your hands at your sides — and it should cover your seat. As a rule of thumb: if you can’t take a full golf swing in it, it doesn’t fit.

For trousers, you can adjust the rise (the distance from crotch to waistband) to suit your frame, but the length should break slightly at the shoe and avoid any heavy pooling.

Construction

If you have a quirky build or care about precision, made-to-measure (MTM) can be a smart upgrade. These suits are based on a standard pattern adjusted to your measurements—usually a step above off-the-rack. Just keep in mind that not all MTM programs are created equal, so do your research. Bespoke sits at the top of the pyramid: a suit made entirely from scratch with multiple fittings and full creative control. It’s a serious investment but can be worth it if you’re after something truly one-of-a-kind.

Then, consider how the suit is constructed. A full-canvas suit is the gold standard, where a large layer of canvas (usually a blend of horse hair, cotton and other materials) is sewn loosely between the front and back of the jacket, which looks better when you move, will mold to your body, and will last longer. If this is a suit you’ll be wearing more frequently, this could be worth the extra cost.

At the bottom end is fused construction, where the layers are glued, not stitched, together. It’s much cheaper but prone to “bubbling” and will lose shape over time (especially if you try to steam your jacket. Half-canvas construction is a nice middle-ground structure in the chest but fused below the ribcage. If your sales guy doesn’t know how the suit is constructed, leave immediately.

Cut, cloth and character

Every suit has a point of view. Italian tailoring is soft and unstructured, almost like wearing a cardigan, while British cuts bring the drama with strong shoulders and sharper lines. A soft shoulder tends to be more versatile and flattering. Keep the lapels moderate, around 3¾ inches at their widest. Too narrow or wide and it will start to feel dated fast.

Trousers? You’ve got options. Flat front or pleated — and yes, pleats are back in style. You’ll also need to decide between belt loops or side adjusters. Side tabs offer a cleaner, sleeker look, but sometimes, a good belt adds some character. As for cuffs, that’s up to you, though the old school rule says it’s cuffs for pleated pants, plain hems for flat fronts.

A standard two-button jacket is a safe bet, but consider the rakish charm of a three-roll-two for a bit more personality. This is also the time to choose your lapel style (notch is default), and whether you want a single- or double-breasted silhouette.

If it’s your first suit, stick to versatility: navy or grey. Black is generally best saved for funerals. As for material, wool is your best bet — ideally a midweight that works year-round. True four-season fabrics are rare, but a good three-season cloth will cover a lot of ground. For summer, consider wool-linen blends; for winter, flannel wool is a win.

Final touches

A few quick tips that go a long way: match your shoes to your belt (if you’re wearing one), your socks to your trousers (not your shoes) and never button the bottom button of your jacket.

Just remember, above all: fit is king. The rest is just style. Have fun out there.