London: John Rocha, Topshop and Jenny Packham Fall 2009
In John Rocha’s Dover Street shop the other day, I inquired about a couple of large wire-frame rabbits. “Oh, those were going to be hats,” a charming salesboy replied, “but it turned out to be too much, so we left them as sculptures.”
“Too much?” I said, disbelieving. “For the British?”
You say I stereotype, but honestly, the headgear here defies imagination. From the oversize velvet bows worn by Vauxhall’s fashion schoolgirls to Anna Piaggi’s always-outrageous Stephen Jones originals, London Fashion Week is the capital of millinery extremity. One boutique buyer wore a mauve taffeta starfish thrice the size of her head, and no one blinked.
The real shocker, then, were the headbands at John Rocha: black, sober, almost nun-like. It was all part of the Prada-reminiscent play on sex and innocence, with prim, detachable collars and aprons appearing over transparency and bare legs (for fall?). Aside from a brief flirtation with blood orange, followed by a longer foray into sweet peachy-pinks and soft furs, Rocha stuck to monochrome and asphalt tweeds. All the better to see his emphasis on retro-futuristic silhouettes (egg shapes, exaggerated hips) and signature handwork (intricate pleats and tiers). '”Couturier” is too bandied-about a word, but certainly “master craftsman” applies.
Topshop Unique continued its mad love affair with LDN club kids, hitting all the usual synthy notes: late-’80s Lite-Brite colours, leather leggings and lace-up shitkickers. Hooded capes, ponchos, and various drapey things (very Rick Owens) were paired with sequin harem pants. Jumpsuits are still big and space age or video-game influences ruled. The newest look? A cool, loopy black vest shown with grey leather thigh-high boots—a perfect fast-fashion version of the ones Rodarte showed last week.
Outside Basso & Brooke was where I stayed—at the way overseated show, gates were apologetically shut on the longest and best-dressed line of rejects I’ve ever seen. Luckily, Jak & Jil’s Tommy Ton (jakandjil.com) was there to snap the studded Chloe boots stomping away, so he graciously entertained me with fashion and blog gossip.
Back in the tents, Jenny Packham showed a Gucci-lite glamour collection, copping the whole Russian-boho-luxe thing with long fringing, jewel-toned silks and major embellishment, front to back. Her red carpet fans (Keira, SJP, Nelly Furtado) will find plenty to catch the camera’s eye. Plus: hair so great it made me want extensions, all teased with tiny braids. So seventies sexy! And no hat needed.
ALL FALL 2009