LFW Diary: Lana Del Rey and Downton Abbey’s ladies at Mulberry, true love at Jonathan Sauders, and a whole half hour with Tom Ford
Where to begin. With the celebs? Lana Del Rey (carrying the namesake Del Rey bag from the ever-growing fashion house), Michelle Williams, the surprisingly petite Elizabeth Olsen, Leigh Lezark, and Ladies Mary and Edith Crawey—I mean Michelle Dockery and Laura Carmichael—all sat front row at Mulberry; and then there were the models (Jacquetta Wheeler, Irina Lazareanu) and It girls Poppy Delevigne and model/It girl/socialite Caroline Sieber at Matthew Williamson.
But, of course, it’s really all about the clothes. Jonathan Saunders has become my personal highlight of fashion week, and I could have died when I saw the brilliant red dresses, impeccably tailored jackets that straddled blazer and waistcoat, and crisp shirts with prim, pointed collars. There was a psychedelic print, an oversized floral print, diamond- and, later, tweed-print pants, and, in typical Jonathan printmaster-genius style, even stripes. My must-haves? Can I say everything? Or do I have to limit it to just the neon green, kelly, and black ski-ish sweater that roused mid-show claps?
As for the rest of the day: um, swoon when Tom Ford himself talked a small group of editors through his Fall collection—and to think that he did it every half hour, all day long! Suave, eloquent, and charming, the collection is (nearly) everything—it drips of sex, early Gucci appeal (huge gold accessories and embellishments, lots of black, and the sort of backless, long-sleeved dresses that conjure up images of steamy sex scenes). It’s also pure luxury: crocodile jersey comes from crocodile scales cut out individually, then sewn, piece by piece, onto the best quality jersey. Quote of the day? “The platform just won’t die,” said Tom (half an hour with the fashion god is deserving of being on a first-name basis, no?) as a model appeared wearing peg-leg black pants with elongatied gold zippers over a pair of pointy-toed stilettos with gold-tipped heels. Best conversation of the day? “This is Lindsey from Arkansas,” said Tom. “Kansas!” replied Lindsey Wixson. “Right–Wichita!” corrected Tom. “And she’s spunky, too!”
The rest is all a blur—but an amazing one. Thomas Tait floored me with his sweeper coats, use of chartreuse, and such fine tailoring; Acne featured leather medical collars and a great palette ranging from neon green to pastel blue; Topshop Unique managed to look seriously high end; I’d love a Philip Treacy for Marios Schwab cloche (and a sheer cocktail gown to go with it); and I’m already coveting more fur—chic and black from Mulberry or multi-coloured from Matthew Williamson, please.