A Glossary of It Bags

Recently, a photo of Charli xcx flooded fashion corners of the internet for reasons you might not expect. In it, the great Brat dame stands texting nonchalantly, a large black bag slung around her shoulder. To the trained eye, this is not just any leather tote. It’s the Coach Brooklyn bag: a piece that lives on in niche virality, perpetuated through TikTok wishlists and quiet luxury mood-boards. It’s a digital-era icon—and a marker of in-the-know coolness.

The concept of a collectively coveted purse is nothing new. Mainstream It bags have been around for decades, pushing pop culture forward with their global noteriety. We’ve seen Birkins duped to no end. The Dior Saddle Bag hangs on every influencer’s arm. Fendi’s Baguette is its own character in the Sex and the City canon. But what about the bags that are a little less in-your-face? The right It bag is not just a blanket status symbol, it’s a statement that expertly amplifies its carrier’s self-expression.

In an age of overwhelming algorithms, reigning It accessories have found a place in aesthetic subcultures. At their best, they communicate who you are without you having to say a word—or, in Charli xcx’s case, even look up from your phone.

Below, we’ve taken to translating them for you.

Balenciaga Le City Bag

The bag for you if: You’ve seen all the Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen movies. Your signature drink is a dirty vodka martini.

The details: Adorned in studs, buckles and wayward straps, Balenciaga’s Le City bag came out in 2001 and was initially meant to be a limited-edition release. After its embrace by Kate Moss, the bag became a staple of Y2K accessorizing and the go-to for It girls with an edge. It was re-released by Demna and has since been spotted on Chloë Sevigny, Kaia Gerber, and Moss herself. These days, it’s often procured second-hand (a friend of mine got hers at Boketto in Toronto; I’ve been eyeing one on Poshmark), though you can purchase full-price from the brand.

Miu Miu Aventure Bag

The bag for you if: You’re off-kilter in a delightful way. You’re a big fan of Sofia Coppola (and her daughter Romy Mars).

The details: Inspired by the brand’s archives, the Miu Miu Aventure (unveiled for Fall 2024) has become the perfect calling card for the singular uniqueness of Prada’s little sister. Made with supple Nappa leather and a rounded, feminine silhouette, it’s a practical yet polished pick. Its most distinct characteristic is its wrap-around belt-buckle strap, which captures the alluring randomness of the Miu Miu girl.

Chanel 25 Handbag

The bag for you if: You order an assortment of pastries just to taste each one. Your preferred social media platform is Goodreads.

The background: Released as part of the House’s Spring 2025 collection and debuted in a campaign with Dua Lipa, the Chanel 25 bag was destined for It bag status. Melding structure with slouch, the design has all the makings of a Chanel classic (hardware strap, dainty quilting, double “C” logo) with the wearability of an everyday tote. Available in three sizes, the largest one is an ideal plus-one for any occasion—from airplane carry-on to office bag.

Chloé Paddington

The bag for you if: You never stopped wearing flats, even when they weren’t on trend. You keep a journal on you at all times. You’re secretly addicted to TikTok, but pretend you “don’t know how it works.”

The background: Phoebe Philo introduced the Chloé Paddington on the Spring 2005 runway, alongside Y2K-era skinny scarves and satin slips. And in the years that followed, like the legendary creative director herself, the bag became iconic. Amid the surge of aestheticized nostalgia and the collective references to Philo-era fashion, Chloé re-released the bag as part of its Spring 2025 show. A subtle East-West shape with contrast studs and buckles, the true star detail is the statement gold padlock and corresponding dangling key. While the refreshed iteration is not yet available for purchase (you can get on the waitlist here), the resale market is brimming with originals.

Coach Brooklyn Shoulder Bag

The bag for you if: When you make a to-do list, you write down everything you’ve wanted to do since you were nine years old. Brat summer was never a trend for you (duh).

The background: Worn by Bella Hadid and Charli xcx alike, the Coach Brooklyn is a bag for girls on the move. Released just last summer, it’s a refreshing deviation from hyper-structured luxury purses. With an ultra-slouchy silhouette and a casual boho-feel, it has a fits-everything finish and slings comfortably on the shoulder. Available in a series of minimalist colour-ways and a suede iteration, the Coach Brooklyn can be a statement on its own or a blank canvas for clip-on charms.

Khaite Simona

The bag for you if: Your go-to style is the slicked-back bun. You never go anywhere without your Rhode lip peptide. You’ve attempted a Nara Smith recipe.

The background: There has been no shortage of East-West bags in the fashion world; their sleek, slender style speaking to the quiet luxury demand of the moment. Introduced as part of the brand’s Fall 2024 collection, the Khaite Simona bag was a godsend for stealth wealth fans. With two elongated straps and a statement zipper pull tab, it brings personality to the archetypal simple purse. Pictured here on Sofia Richie, the bag is a seamless addition to a trench-and-sunnies uniform.