H&M Kicks Off London Fashion Week

On the runway calendar, London Fashion Week is known for being somewhat of a wild card. With roots in Vivienne Westwood’s anti-establishment punk and Alexander McQueen’s avant-garde theatrics, the British capital is historically home to up-and-coming labels with a subversive edge. For me, the words that come to mind when describing the days-long runway affair are weird, unique and singular. “Well, that’s H&M,” says Eliana Masgalos, Design Director for H&M.

The Swedish brand kicked off the London Fashion Week Spring 2026 season on September 18 with a its H&M180: The London Issue show at 180 Strand, a renowned Brutalist landmark in the city. And while a global retailer like H&M is not exactly what comes to mind when you think of “emerging” labels, lately it’s become fluent in esoteric internet subcultures—partnering with Charli xcx before Brat Summer and tapping It-girls like Gabbriette, Richie Shazam and Amelia Gray just as their cult fandoms began to crystallize.

The brand has never held a runway show in London, so naturally, now felt like the right time. “This collection draws from the UK in the ’90s; London is the root of our inspiration,” Masgalos says before the show, adding that it’s been in the works for a year. “Brit pop and Brit rock are referenced in our collection, especially with the argyles and checks that you see so much of in England.”

With attendees like Emily Ratajkowski and Gabbriette and models like Alex Consani and Amelia Gray, the star-studded show unfolded in three acts. The first was brutalist-inspired, with plant imagery and menswear incorporated throughout.

“I worked very closely with the [menswear], because we want to show a collection together: how you can blend different styles and be fluid,” explains Masgalos. “I mean, I buy menswear all the time.” There are asymmetrically draped gauzy dresses with greenery motifs alongside tailored blazers with subtle hourglass shapes.

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photography courtesy of h&m

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The second act was “all about the UK in the ’90s,” Masgalos continues, featuring teased hair, bold red leathers and piled-on checks.

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photography courtesy of h&m

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Finally, act three was sci-fi-inspired and glam-heavy, with sensual laces, glossy leathers and power-suit silhouettes. That one, she says, centres on the idea of looking forward. “It’s about hoping for a great future.” The Fall 2025 show had a see-now-buy-now approach, with some of the pieces made available online immediately, and the rest rolling out throughout the season.

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photography courtesy of h&m

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In true London Week Fashion form, the event was also unafraid to get a little bizarre. Midway through, interpretive dancers in all black slinked onto the runway, contorting and twisting as models walked past. The casting, too, felt carefully considered, with a slew of next-gen British stars and famous offspring co-signing H&M’s edgy vision, including Lila Moss, Iris Law and Romeo Beckham. To end things off, South-London star Lola Young took to the runway to perform, with models coming out to dance around her.

In the end, it had all the drama you want from a passionate runway show—but with a high-street budget to match. To Masgalos, it’s the first of many more runways like it. “We’re going to continue pushing passion and creativity, both internally and towards our consumer. We hope that our customer sees the difference in our collections.” What is the difference, exactly? “We’re not scared of fashion. I think maybe that’s the shift—we got more inspired by the people that wear our collections, who are more edgy. To us, it’s all about self-expression.”

A very London Fashion Week debut, indeed.