The False Promise of the Capsule Wardrobe

Until very recently, it seemed like personal style was on the verge of extinction. TikTok “cores” were running rampant. Microtrends caused mass copycats. Algorithms inspired sartorial anarchy.

But suddenly, something changed — fashion enlightenment, perhaps? Or a fast fashion fatigue? Either way, the proverbial hamster wheel has started to slow down, and the notion of personal style — true personal style, meaning that it comes from you, personally, and not via social media — is having a renaissance.

As such, in the last few weeks, the push to downsize to a more minimalist wardrobe has been nothing short of aggressive. TikTokers and publications alike are claiming the capsule wardrobe to be the cure to all of our stylish maladies and the answer to the dreaded question “What do I wear today?”

But, dear readers, I’m sorry to report the capsule wardrobe is not the solution it promises to be. It doesn’t help you find your personal style — it’s actually hindering it.

For starters, the concept of a more curated closet is as old as Anna Wintour’s bob. A capsule wardrobe hinges on the idea of a collection of “basics” that can be mixed and matched in endless combinations. There are different suggestions as to the number of items that you’ll need but the garments in question tend to remain the same: a plain white tee, black blazer, Breton stripe sweater, cozy turtleneck, button-up shirt, straight-legged jeans, wide trousers, neutral loafers, and white sneakers.

The clothing listed above is not indispensable nor is it a necessity. That’s because “basics” or “essentials” are highly subjective and, if we’re being honest, a bit of fashion nonsense. The only “essential” every Earthingly actually needs is underwear and socks — and maybe not even those. Just as one look doesn’t fit all, one wardrobe does not fit all. Not every lifestyle requires you to look like a Charlotte York wannabe or a guy who just bought a boat. There’s room for the Carries, Mirandas and Samanthas of the world. Or the men who are less aquatically-inclined.

Also, the idea that a closet of coordinating basics will last forever doesn’t really hold up. Yes, some items perpetually come back around but never exactly the way they did before — even the fit of a t-shirt evolves over time. More likely than not, you’ll have to buy different versions of those same things the following year, perpetuating a cycle of constant consumption and disposal, not unlike the microtrends that capsule wardrobes are in theory rejecting. Consider it another TikTok “core,” just repackaged.

But perhaps the capsule wardrobe’s worst offence is its admiration for being average. When everything you own needs to match or be by definition basic, you’re eliminating any outliers that involve more creative styling. A bold shoe to offset a vibrant print. A novelty handbag to accessorize statement slacks. In short: the pieces with personality. As a result, we’ll all start regressing towards the mean, looking the same and thus losing our individuality or personal style. Is it practical? Sure. But it’s also the antithesis of fun.

So may we suggest reframing your thinking slightly: Don’t build a capsule, create a collection. Accumulate pieces that are weird, dramatic and untrendy. If they bring you endless joy and feel undeniably like you, they’re worthy of a spot in your wardrobe. From there, you can mix in more minimalist pieces if you would like your look to be less loud. But if you want to sartorially scream, that’s okay too. The best way to curate a closet you love is to not copy and paste viral looks but to accept what you like and what you don’t. Maybe that’s the only way to get off the hamster wheel for good?