Spring 2014 fashion anything but prissy. A new take on the classic feminine aesthetic—think skirt suits, midi skirts, hourglass shapes—brings a mix of sportswear into the game, but the pairings are renewed thanks to a mixture of textiles and modern silhouettes. On the runways, was all about incorporating figure flattering athletic styles that played off of the feminine pairings, creating a cohesive look of casual abandon.
Champion of the mix-and-match, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni, cinched waists with striped belts and paired abstract jewellery with streamlined visors. The mix of masculine and feminine cues avoided looking disjointed. Michael Kors went the same route, updating a timeless American sportswear aesthetic with fluffy fur stoles and platform sandals. For both shows, the accents and accessories were what transitioned the sportswear looks into feminine territory.
Proenza Schouler, Christian Dior and Chrisopher Kane played off pleated demi-skirts with a boxier top featuring an exaggerated rounded shoulder, modernizing the mid-century staple. Carven updated the skirt-suit pairing made famous by Chanel, keeping the top button of the jacket buttoned while the rest laid open, showing of a bit of midriff.
Altuzzara, undoubtedly one of the most talked about shows of the season, mixed an athletic henley with liquid metal skirts, a high low mixing that has been all the rage of late. Another contrasted a button down silk striped shirt, another nod to the athletic trend, with a skirt in a different striped pattern. In both, sporty is made ladylike thanks to the flashes of skin through a low cut top or unbuttoned blouse and thigh high slit in the skirt.
Similarly Burberry and Jonathan Saunders played off sheer skirts with lightweight cardigans, crew neck sweaters and silky bomber jackets, perfect for those chilly summer nights. Mixtures of texture were also seen at Tory Burch, Theyskens Theory and Karen Walker, showing that a covered-up look can still be feminine and appealing despite a lack of bare skin.