Are Light Therapy Masks Worth the Hype?

Last weekend, I was binge-watching the latest season of one of my guilty pleasures shows, 90 Day Fiancé: The Other Way. Elise, a 32-year old Miami Beach native, was packing her bags to go meet her boyfriend for the first time when she pulls out an LED mask, looks at the producer behind the camera with a sarcastic smile and says “Do you think he’s gonna think it’s sexy when I go to bed in my red light sleep mask?”

Red light therapy has quickly become commonplace in skincare and wellness routines. Whether it’s on your FYP, TV, or even IRL at the spa, you’ve likely seen the bright penetrating light delivered most often via panels, beds, saunas, or masks. As with any new skincare technology, the claims are vast and intriguing.

“LED masks are appealing because they’re non-invasive and very easy to use at home. They don’t damage the skin, they don’t involve heat, and there’s no downtime,” says Dr. Geeta Yadav, a board-certified dermatologist, medical director and founder of FACET Dermatology in Toronto.

But are they effective? And is it possible to get real results at home? Read on to find out.

How does red light therapy work?

NASA originally began experimenting with red light therapy in the ‘80s as a way to stimulate plant growth in space so astronauts could eat fresh veggies in orbit. Pretty quickly thereafter, researchers discovered that the treatment could have therapeutic benefits for humans too—and started using it to help astronauts heal their wounds. Now, we’re applying that technology to our faces.

“Red light is very popular because it penetrates deeper into the skin and is associated with collagen stimulation and anti-inflammatory effects. That makes it useful for general skin rejuvenation,” Dr. Yadav explains.

The red light spectrum spans from 600 to 700 nanometres (nm), but some wavelengths are more beneficial than others for treating common concerns For example, the 630 nm wavelength penetrated deep enough to target fine lines and wrinkles, while the 650 nm wavelength is most effective at promoting hair growth. Colors need to be the correct length to be properly absorbed by the mitochondria to trigger sufficient cellular change.

Other popular wavelengths sometimes available in masks include blue light (400 to 480 nm) which is helpful for treating acne, because it has antibacterial effects and controls oiliness, yellow light (570 to 58 0nm) which brightens and soothes sensitive skin, and near-infrared (700 to 2500 nm) wavelengths which penetrate even deeper and tighten skin tissue. “[LED] devices aren’t going to replace procedures like lasers or injectables, but they can be a helpful adjunct in a skincare routine,” Dr. Yadav says.

What are the benefits of using red light therapy masks?

“Certain wavelengths of light can stimulate skin cells to behave differently. When those wavelengths are absorbed by structures in the cell, especially in the mitochondria, they can increase cellular energy production and influence repair and inflammation pathways,” explains Dr. Yadav.

Increasing cellular production can boost collagen—the protein in your body that provides structure, support and strength to your skin. Research backs these claims. In vitro studies show that exposure to red and near-infrared LED light significantly increases expression of hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS2) and elastin (ELN) in human skin cells—both of which are key components of skin firmness and hydration.

The other great thing about LED masks is that, unlike certain other treatments, “LED therapy is generally considered safe across all skin types because it doesn’t rely on targeting pigment the way lasers often do,” says Dr. Yadav. “Red and near-infrared wavelengths in particular are considered very safe for darker skin tones.”

Is there a difference between an in-office treatment and an at-home LED face mask?

While you may see results using an LED mask at home, they might not rival the results you can get in-clinic. That’s because of the power of the wavelengths. “In-office devices tend to deliver higher energy levels and the treatments are done under medical supervision. At-home masks are less powerful, but they’re designed for frequent use,” Dr. Yadav explains. “Because people can use them several times a week, that consistency can help compensate for the lower energy per session.”

At home, you’ll get the best results using your LED device on clean, bare skin. This lets the light penetrate without any interference. Heavy creams, mineral sunscreens, and opaque products can block or scatter light, which may reduce the efficacy of the treatment.

What should I look for when buying an LED face mask?

“I would look for a device that clearly states the wavelengths it uses and ideally has some clinical testing behind it. Regulatory clearance, like FDA clearance or Health Canada approval, is also reassuring,” advises Dr. Yadav. Beware of any red light mask that falls in the 600-610nm range as the wavelengths may be too short to penetrate the skin, which may affect the results you see at home.

And don’t overlook the importance of simple things like fit and comfort. “If the mask sits close to the skin and is comfortable to wear, you’re much more likely to use it consistently,” she says. Because the unsurprising truth is that wearing your mask consistently is really the only way to see real results. As Dr. Yadav says, “even a well-designed mask won’t do much if it isn’t used regularly.”

Shop these LED masks

These FDA-cleared devices get our stamp of approval.

Omnilux Contour Face Mask

LED type: Red and near-infrared Wavelengths: 633 nm (red) and 830 nm (near-infrared)

CurrentBody LED Multi Light Therapy Mask

LED type: Red, yellow, blue, green, near-infrared, deep near-infrared Wavelengths: 415 nm (blue), 532 nm (green), 590 nm (yellow), 633 nm (red), 830 nm (near-infrared), 1072 nm (deep near-infrared)

Dr Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite™ FaceWare Pro

LED type: Red, blue Wavelengths: 415 nm (blue), 605 nm (amber), 630 nm (red), 880 nm (near-infrared)

Clara Red Light Therapy

LED type: Red, blue, infrared Wavelengths: 415 nm (blue), 633 nm (red), 850 nm (near-infrared)

Megelin Duo-Lux LASER&LED Light Therapy Mask

LED type: Amber, red, deep red, infrared, deep infrared Wavelengths: 595 nm (amber), 630 nm (red), 660 nm (deep red), 830 nm (infrared), 1064 nm (deep infrared)