NYFW backstage beauty: Matte magenta mouths at Prabal Gurung

The matte magenta mouths at Prabal Gurung were gorgeous at first glance, but look a little closer, and they were blackened in the center. Since the designer was inspired by Japanese photographer Araki’s shots of exotic blooms (as well as aggressive-looking nudies, we just discovered while Googling him), he asked makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury to create the illusion of “this orchid that was sort of coming out of the lips.” To do that, she used M.A.C. Pro Process Magenta Chromagraphic Pencil to slightly overdraw the lips “like they’ve been kissing,” while MAC Pro Pigments in “Burgundy,” “Fuschia,” and “Black” provided the slightly ombre effect to mimic the flower. Cheekbones were contoured for “slight definition and structure” with cream bronzer. Next, silver grey shadow was stroked across the sockets of the eyes, and Strobe Cream was added on top for a gleam. To create highlights, Luna Cream Color Base was blended in a C shape around the temple and eyes and a lick of mascara and gelled up brows finished the look. On nails, Jin Soon Choi used Sally Hansen’s “Loves Me Not,” a dark purple with subtle glitter, as the main tone “to make a strong statement” edged by “Lacy Lilac” “to show a soft side.”

Continuing with the theme of strength and independence, hair stylist Didier Malige felt this woman would show her face with a sleek style. “They are, how would you call it… anti-romantic.” Using Fekkai’s Coiff Extra Control Styling Gel on damp hair, he created a centre part and comb marks, while the back was left dry and smooth.