Lucia Pica on Bringing Experimental Beauty to Byredo
The Italian makeup artist is painting outside the lines—and reshaping the industry in the process.
The first time I saw Lucia Pica’s work up close was backstage at London Fashion Week, Spring 2015, at House of Holland. She was weaving a spell with rock ’n’ roll silver sparkles that felt alive and fearless. Even then, her signature duality (raw versus refined) was easy to see. Her makeup had bite—a sense of soul—and it was as cool as hell.
That polished yet rebellious sensibility would go on to define her six-year run at Chanel. And now Pica is channelling that same energy at Byredo, bringing her full-spectrum creativity as the brand’s creative image and makeup partner, a role she took on in 2022.
Pica’s work doesn’t just sit pretty; it tells a story. “Makeup has always been something I found incredibly attractive and appealing, even when I was a kid,” she tells me from Paris, where she’s based. “I remember using it as a way to transform myself, to experiment with different looks and feelings.”
Born in Naples, Italy, Pica was drawn to contrasts from an early age. “It’s a place that symbolizes unconditional love but also a desire to escape and explore,” she says. “It shows you the rawness of real life, spontaneity and surprise, yet it’s full of grandeur, history and beauty.” That tension still fuels her creative lens.
Her early experiments with makeup were personal and a little rebellious. “I loved watching my mother put on lipstick,” she says. “It was one of her rituals—that final thing before stepping out into the world.” But the real fun happened next door. “I always loved going to my neighbour’s house. I would sneak off to her bathroom and put her makeup on my face”—a little sneaky, totally curious and already chasing transformation.
In her early 20s, Pica moved to London, took a course at Greasepaint, now Iver Makeup Academy, and quickly found her place in the fashion scene, working her way up to becoming Charlotte Tilbury’s first assistant. “London has an incredible energy,” she says. “It’s free and liberal. It really taught me that makeup isn’t just about technique; it’s about transformation, emotion and identity.”
Going freelance in 2008, she hit the ground running and painted faces for titles like British Vogue, i-D and Interview and built the creative crew that would shape her signature style. “That sense of community shaped me as an artist,” she says.
It’s that collaborative spirit, combined with an innate sensitivity to texture and tone, that eventually led her to Chanel. “It was about honouring heritage whilst being innovative,” Pica says. “The challenge was always to evolve its story without losing its soul. But the joy was immense— having access to incredible materials and history and the opportunity to reinterpret icons with my own voice.”
Byredo may still be best known for its Scandi-chic fragrances, but since expanding into makeup in 2020, the brand has been actively growing its presence in the cosmetics category. And with the appointment of Pica as creative image and makeup partner, Byredo has doubled down on developing this range, infusing it with a new level of artistry and vision.
“Every day is different,” she says. “Some days, I will be testing formulations, playing with textures and perfecting undertones. Other days, we are planning or shooting campaigns—thinking about how a product feels, not just how it looks.” For her, beauty isn’t just visual; it’s experiential. “I’m always thinking about how to visually express a concept in a way that resonates with people.”
Pica describes her creative process as “full circle”: It starts with mood boards and ends with a fully formed product. “I begin by building a story around that feeling or mood, collecting references, colours and textures,” she says.
“Then I start translating that into something tactile—mixing pigments, testing finishes, playing with light. Colour becomes my language, and texture adds another layer of meaning.”
Pica is quick to note that her work doesn’t chase trends—it chases truth. “I begin with an idea, something that might be quite abstract, and then I start building the narrative. This way, we are always creating something authentic.”
As for where beauty is headed, she’s excited by what she sees. “There’s a softness coming back to the industry, where people are embracing imperfections,” she says. “I love that people are more interested in individuality than uniformity. Also, this move toward multi-sensory beauty—where scent, touch and memory intersect—this is where my interest lies. That’s a space I want to explore more.”
In other words, expect Pica to keep colouring outside the lines—one pigment, one feeling and one unforgettable look at a time.
Tool Box
Lucia Pica’s tried-and-true beauty must-haves.
Julia is a Toronto-based, award-winning writer and stylist with a sharp eye for celebrity, pop culture and all things fashion and beauty. With over 15 years of experience covering the style scene, she’s currently the Fashion and Beauty Editor at Hello! Canada. Her work has also appeared in ELLE Canada, FASHION, The Kit, Canadian Living, CBC, Chatelaine and The Globe and Mail, among others. When she’s not chasing the next big trend, she’s running, traveling and keeping up with her endlessly curious toddler, Tilda.