Chloé Comme Parris Fall 2013 backstage beauty: Boho braids and makeup that looks like it’s been on all night long
The makeup: “It’s about society girls gone bad. Rich girls who’ve been partying all night long and their makeup’s been really worn in and lived in and danced in.” —Grace Lee, Maybelline New York lead makeup artist
Skin was evened out with a mixture of Maybelline Dream Fresh BB Cream and moisturizer. For a dewy, “sweaty” highlight, clear Baby Lips lip balm was rubbed on the high plains of the cheek and the bridge of the nose.
Eyes were lined with a black kohl pencil, then more Baby Lips was pressed right into the liner with a thin brush, to give the effect of a girl who’s been in her makeup all night long. Soon-to-launch pots of Maybelline pigments in “Luxurious Bronze” and “Cashmere Brown” were applied on the lids, with more Baby Lips pressed on top. “It’s all about layering,” said Lee. She had models close their eyes while she held the lids open slightly with her finger so she could apply Rocket Mascara thickly to the top and bottom lashes at the same time, which gave an imperfect look, with smudges left below the eyes. “I want them to look a little bit messy, a little bit off. “ Brows were brushed up but left natural, because “it’s all about the screwed-up eye.”
The models were supposed to look as if they’d started with a perfectly applied orange-red lip at the beginning of the night but kept it on till six in the morning. “Maybe she’s made out with a guy in the washroom, I don’t know!” said Lee. A mixture of Maybelline Color Sensational Vivids in “On Fire Red” and “Electric Orange” were applied with a brush and then blotted, with no defined lip line.
The hair: “We wanted something natural that looked unkempt and dishevelled. Then we wanted to add texture but we didn’t want to start doing pretty hair. Once we started adding braids it turned into this rebel boho girl who does her own thing.” Jorge Joao, Redken lead stylist
The models were asked to come in with natural hair that wasn’t too clean. A curling iron was used to add loose, natural wave and prepped with Redken Fabricate 03 for movement and Powder Grip 03 hair powder to give a textured, gritty feel. Then the braiding began, first with a cornrow on the side that opened up into a ponytail. Strands were pulled out to make it looser and loopier. Two smaller sections on top of that were braided and left to drop on top of the cornrow, and a piece of hair from the fringe was braided and swept across to pull the hair out of the face. “It’s not only an accessory, it’s a band that’s pushing away the rest of the hair,” said Joao. The ends were made piece-y with Wax Blast 10 and the look was finished with anti-humidity Control Addict 28 spray.
For the “oil spill” nails, metallic Essie polishes in blues, greens and greys were marbled together and slicked with glossy topcoat. “It’s an organic, really wet, greasy finish,” said Essie lead nail artist Rita Remark. (Shade enthusiasts, look for “No Place Like Chrome,” “Trophy Wife,” “Over The Top,” “Midnight Cami” and “Sexy Divide” to duplicate this look.) The shape was kept natural and just reached the tip of the models’ natural nails.