These New Chemical Peels Are Changing the Way We Exfoliate

Cleopatra reportedly bathed in milk. French courtesans soaked in wine. Exfoliation has always been the move, and chemical peels are just history repeating itself. “The story of peels is probably as long as the story of humanity,” says Ivana Veljkovic, an organic chemist and the chief scientific officer at Linder Health, a skincare brand that’s reinventing resurfacing. Fast-forward to 2025 and there’s no more soaking in beverages for smooth skin. Even Samantha Jones’s early-aughts “beef carpaccio” face in Sex and the City is a far cry from today’s treatments.

Don’t Call it a Comeback

Chemical peels are a relatively simple treatment, whether they’re done in-office or at home. An acid is applied to eat away at the dead skin cells, revealing a fresher, smoother complexion. But back in the early 2000s, peels had a bit of a bad rap because redness, swelling and shedding like a snake were the norm, sometimes leaving skin raw for days. The treatment was once considered too harsh for many, especially those who have sensitivities or a deeper skin tone, and the downtime was intimidating.

Fortunately, innovation stepped in. “Thanks to advancements in technology and a deeper understanding of skin biology, newer peels focus on stimulating the skin’s natural regeneration without causing excessive irritation or damage,” says Dr. Alain Michon, the medical director at Project Skin MD in Ottawa.

And just as the technology has caught up, so has consumer interest. Like in almost every corner of the beauty world, social media has fuelled the surge in chemical-peel popularity. “Trends toward ‘instant glow’ or ‘skin rejuvenation’ align perfectly with what peels can deliver,” says Michon. Pair that with an educated online audience now armed with souped-up products and it’s no wonder exfoliants are having their moment to shine.

The New Era of Peels

We’re in our peel renaissance, and Veljkovic says it’s all thanks to smarter formulas. Brands like Linder Health are leading the charge with blends of gentle acids—salicylic, lactic and tranexamic—plus antioxidants and skin soothers like hexylresorcinol and glycerine, which allow for more skin types and concerns to benefit. Whether you’re dealing with breakouts, rosacea, dark spots or just a case of the blahs, there’s a peel for that. “The choice of acids, the pH delivery system and the specialty ingredients all yield a safe, versatile and effective treatment,” she says.

Glow Equity

Once considered off-limits for deeper skin tones, chemical peels have evolved into a far more inclusive option. Today’s updated formulas are designed to be safe and effective for all complexions. “Historically, many peels were too aggressive for darker skin tones, increasing the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” explains Dr. Roni Munk, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and the medical director at Dermapure Westmount and Pointe-Claire in Montreal. But smarter blends featuring gentler acids and skin-soothing ingredients have changed the game.

That said, customization is key. It takes an experienced pro to choose the right type and strength of peel as well as establish pre- and post-care protocols. With the right approach, all skin tones can benefit from exfoliation. For a steady glow, doctors say mild peels every four to six weeks hit the sweet spot.

Next-Level Skin Duos

So, what’s next for the OG skin-smoothing treatment? According to Veljkovic, it’s all about pairing peels with other high-tech procedures for amplified results. Treatments like light therapy and microneedling get an extra boost when they’re combined with a peel. “Due to the anti-inflammatory nature of today’s peels, they will maximize the benefits and minimize the downsides of these procedures,” she says. Think enhanced results with less redness and recovery time. “The skin is literally glowing afterwards.”

DIY Peel Playbook

If you’re interested in dabbling in at-home options, Munk recommends taking a slow and gentle approach. “Look for products with well-tolerated ingredients like lactic or mandelic acid in concentrations under 10 percent,” he advises. Avoid layering peels with other active ingredients like retinol or scrubs, and, most importantly, slather on a healthy layer of SPF afterwards as your skin will be more susceptible to sun damage. Munk adds that peels can be done year-round, but since there’s a heightened risk of UV-induced pigmentation in the summer, the cooler temperatures of fall make it the best time to resurface your skin.

Peel Like a Pro

These in-office and at-home peels make glass skin that much more achievable.

Linder Health Hero Peel

Blending a cocktail of acids like mandelic, lactic, salicylic and glycolic, this 45-minute treatment is formulated to be the crowd-pleaser of peels. It works for all skin types and concerns and tackles uneven skin texture, fine lines and pigmentation.

Three Ships Superfruit Lactic + Multifruit AHA Exfoliating Ma

This mild exfoliant from the Toronto-based brand can be used on all skin types, including sensitive ones, as it’s formulated with a multi-fruit-acid blend and lactic acid to gently resurface.

Peter Thomas Roth Even Smoother Instant Reveal Facial Peel

Enriched with 30 percent glycolic acid, this potent peel decongests clogged pores, and its niacinamide helps brighten lacklustre skin.

Dermalogica Pro LuminFusion Treatment

This non-invasive resurfacing procedure combines technologies like LED red-light therapy, a retinol peel and Pro-Pen, which infuses the top layer of the skin with active ingredients, for a service that targets dullness and uneven skin tone.

The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

Previously only available south of our border, this liquid exfoliant is now approved for use in Canada. Targeting uneven pigmentation, it’s a potent formula that’s meant to be used sparingly.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2025 issue. Find out more here