NYFW diary: Michael Kors channels LOST and 3.1 Phillip Lim goes pastel neoprene
Michael Kors must have been mourning the end of LOST, designing his spring collection for a sexy-, dishevelled-haired hunter-gatherer. Suede utility shorts, tasselled macramé, jagged leather satchels, and caftans in beautiful shades of amber, sienna, and khaki green were accented with coloured python and animal print; it was fitting for a far-off safari but just as relevant for the wilds of the concrete jungle.
At Ports 1961, the runway was a flood of paired-down pieces, with designer Fiona Cibani opting to keep the palette simple, focusing on the craftsmanship of beautiful architectural folds, geometric lines, and mirrored mosaics. Sleek accessories in bolts of neon colour—colour-blocked heels, accordion bags, and skinny, tubular belts—gave the looks some added modern pop.
The look at 3.1 Phillip Lim was all about free-form, billowy fabrics inspired by the flight of a kite. Panels of lilac and limoncello silks moved fluidly with the models’ march but were brought back down to earth by utilitarian zipper detailing on anoraks and tomboy trousers, sporty micro twills, and heavy metallic accessories. Must-haves already on my list: a neoprene, blush open-front vest, an asymmetrical silk-panelled camisole, and a white zip-away peplum pant. As usual with Lim’s collection, I can already hear the cash registers ringing.