London: Day five
By Leah Rumack
Shown: Luella Bartley Fall 2008. Photography by Peter Stigter.
Luella Bartley Something wicked this way came at Luella’s witchy-inspired show, though thankfully the stated paganism was kept to a dull roar with a bit of coloured stitching at the top of puff-sleeved peasant blouses and high-heeled clogs, a few pointy hats and bright orange tights.
And while fitted black-and-red check jackets with puffed sleeves, smocked blouses and madly crimped hair all felt terribly British and witty, it was her (Short! Short! Poufy! Again!) cocktail frocks that took the prize, especially the one festooned with lengths of multi-coloured ribbon.
Erdem Absolutely gorgeous. My favourite show of the week was from Canadian Erdem (pop quiz: how long do you have to not live in Canada before Canadian editors stop claiming you as their own? Answer: We will NEVER stop), who was the talk of London after winning the £50,000 2007 Fashion Council Enterprise Award. He put on a stunning show full of couture-like looks after managing to get Taroni silks to create special lengths of heavy duchesse covered in blurry lime, purple, yellow and orange prints (mostly floral, but super fantastic, modern floral). He then worked his very own fabric into everything from short dresses to amazing red-carpet strapless gowns, some covered with jewelled embroidery and chunks of Swarovski crystals.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Though iconic British designer Vivienne Westwood has her main show in Paris, the dull popular roar has finally brought her back to the London runways with her diffusion line. And Viv, ever the democrat, turned out a happy collection of (reasonably) affordable signature pieces, including modern takes on her beloved tropes of pinstripe tailoring, tartan kilts, coats and knits, and classic Westwoodian touches of asymmetry and baggy hems.
God I wish I had: A line sheet. Haven’t London designers ever heard of a line sheet? Honestly.
People at the shows are wearing: Skinny headbands and ribbons pitched forward on their foreheads so they look like low crowns.
British DJs just can’t get enough of: Mashups with eighties songs. I’ve even heard Tiffany. Twice.
Best Valentines ever: Was from Erdem at his afterparty. Erdem (hearts) you throw pillows and disc necklaces etched with “Kiss Me,” “Request a Tune” and “Tease Me” were madly snapped up by the fashion pack.
