Fall beauty 2011 trend report: Makeup

HERMÈS Fall 2011. Photography by Peter Stigter.

We connect the dots between the artists and this season’s top trends. Meet the artists behind the season’s biggest beauty messages.

By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel

See the top beauty trends for fall »

View by trend: Well Red | Metallic Bond | Extra Lining | Spiked Punch | Blush Hour | Mute Button

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WELL RED: From poppy to merlot, reds ruled.
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“We’re inspired by these bright, independent American women like Gloria Vanderbilt and Diana Vreeland—a woman who’s doing things for society, well put together, but very simple about it,” said James Kaliardos, of the fleshy cherry lips he created at Diane von Furstenberg.

Lucia Pieroni
For the strict Victorian governesses at Giles, Pieroni created meticulous matte red lips. To keep them looking uptight, she paired the disciplined hit of colour with a freshly scrubbed face.

Pat McGrath
At Gucci, McGrath blended four different shades and textures of red: She traced the lips with a darker crimson pencil, filled them in with blackened burgundy lipstick, pressed a traditional red into the centre, and then layered gloss overtop.

METALLIC BOND: Alloys were used in a number of ways to add texture and interest to the face.
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Tom Pecheux Tom Pecheux clearly favoured one commodity: He used silver to sculpt a strong eye at Derek Lam and dusted a pigment powder of the same hue over red lips at Peter Som for a robotic-looking finish. (Image by Nez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin)

Peter Philips
Inspired by the Chanel show’s backdrop of smoking volcanic rocks, Philips rimmed eyes with a creamy gunmetal shadow before adding hits of black at the edges and white on the centre of top and bottom lids.

Charlotte Tilbury
Tilbury played with shadows at Victoria Beckham, enlisting a slew of bronzers, a gold highlighter and even a complexion-brightening serum to do everything from contouring cheeks to creating a 3-D effect on lips.

EXTRA LINING: Cat-eye flicks have evolved into artful strokes.
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Charlotte Willer The rocker-chic graphic lines that Charlotte Willer drew in the crease of the eye at DKNY were inspired by a ’70s Jane Birkin.

Pat McGrath
The mod movement was in full effect at Anna Sui, where McGrath applied a thick line above the crease and below the water line. Offset by white shadow, the look was pure Carnaby Street.

Val Garland
At Daks, Garland dragged a thick black stroke along the top lash line and winged it out slightly, framing the eyes and echoing the British house’s archive-inspired pieces.

SPIKED PUNCH: Channelling the spirit of the ’60s, lashes appeared spiderlike.
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Pat McGrathThe lashes at Lanvin were intentionally clumpy, according to Pat McGrath, who explained the designer wanted it to look like the girls had wielded the wands themselves and didn’t know when to quit.

Lucia Pieroni
With a bit of a Goldie Hawn inspiration at Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Pieroni created dramatic lashes with “tons of mascara, just whacking it on.”

Charlotte Tilbury
Tilbury singled out Anita Pallenberg and Charlotte Rampling as her “rock ’n’ roll hippie” muses for the look at Chloé, which involved loads of mascara to create well-endowed top and bottom lashes.

BLUSH HOUR: Blush returns on the temples and as far south as below the cheekbones.
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Nars At Marc Jacobs, the ill-placed blush applied by François Nars was used to channel an eccentric mad lady who never quite gets the placement of her makeup correct.

Gucci Westman
To convey a Mongolian journey, at Oscar de la Renta, Westman created “burnt cheeks that you could really feel” by mixing two shades of lipstick.

Pat McGrath
Layers upon layers of a creamy bubble-gum hue were applied at Prada to make cheeks look slightly raw. The aggressively pinched flush popped even more against the pale skin, which McGrath achieved by using a foundation that was lighter than the model’s skin tone.

MUTE BUTTON: Despite the wildly creative art that’s been dominating nails as of late, minimalism has tiptoed back.
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Jin Soon Choi “[He] wanted a simple and clean look,”  Jin Soon Choi explained of the “wintery white” nails at Derek Lam. “There’s a softness to it. It’s not too white and has a little pink in it.”

Severine Goncalves
Pared-down nails at Giambattista Valli came courtesy of a coat of pearly polish to add a veil of light to tips.

Sophy Robson
Known for her avant-garde manicures, Robson kept things minimal at Christopher Kane, skipping lacquer altogether and simply buffing nails and rubbing in a drop of cuticle oil for a healthy shine.

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