How to Style Men’s Mary Janes
Mary Jane shoes for men are suddenly everywhere. Can the T-bar style work for guys? Writer Josh Greenblatt set out to prove that it can.
My lifelong obsession with clothes has led to some tragic sartorial gaffes. My closet is a graveyard of leopard-print sweaters, acid-washed jeans and metallic nylon sneakers. Mercifully, once I hit 30, my style settled into something more cohesive — or at least more legibly normal. Shoes, however, remain my playground for experimentation. And a new one has just entered the chat: the Mary Jane.
Mary Janes were originally called “bar shoes.” They are said to have originated at the turn of the 20th century and were more popular with boys. The infantile shoe eventually matured into a sophisticated style for women. Flappers wore them in the 1920s before designer Mary Quant put Twiggy in a pair in the 1960s, inducting them into the proverbial fashion hall of fame.
Fast-forward to 2019 and 2020, when Tyler, The Creator and Harry Styles wore Mary Janes, from Dr. Martens and Gucci respectively. At the time, menswear’s pre-eminent megaphones announced the arrival of the new style. The problem was, there were barely any on the market — certainly none on the grid, let alone on the street. After a four-year slow burn — and a million interpretations of the style — Mary Janes are so back.
For Spring 2024, Lemaire, Dries and Italian newcomer Magliano unveiled their versions of the style in ballet flats. Low-slung loafers and sneaker-style iterations of Mary Janes dominated the Dior Fall 2024 runway. And Pharrell at Louis Vuitton just released a chunky derby that I may have to crowdfund for. Could I, a mere mortal, pull off the men’s Mary Jane, upending fashion and gender in the process? In short, yes — one step at a time.
Day 1: Vans Mary Jane
I eased in with a sneaker: the Vans Mary Jane in a burgundy leather. The creeper sole, black toe cap and metal strap buckle give the trending men’s ballet flat a skater-y edge. They blend a retro feminine style with playful masculine elements for a youthful summer shoe. Plus, they were comfortable enough for the 45-minute walk from my apartment to Yorkville.
Admittedly — and I do hate to admit it — I was a tad self-conscious about my first foray into the style. I worried I might attract stares (or glares) in a touristy area with more New Balance-powered foot traffic than men’s Mary Janes. But the approval of my fashionable-but-not-“Fashion” friends eased my concerns and encouraged me to embrace the look.
Day 2: Dr. Martens Adrian T-Bar Leather Mary Jane Shoes
Before I headed to my parents’ house for a barbeque, I warned my fashion-unaware family that I’d be wearing a pair of shoes that might shock them: Dr. Martens chunky-soled T-bar loafers with the brand’s signature contrasting yellow stitching. To my surprise, my family sung their praises, complimenting the intricate woven detail on the side and remarking on how comfortable
they looked. They were right — the cork insole is extra cushiony, and the slightly wider fit allows for sock-full or sockless wear without issue.
Because of the chill in the air, I wore wide-fit dark jeans and a vintage long-sleeved polo tucked in with a Western belt. The shoe is versatile — a cross between a loafer and a sandal, which allows for a wide range of styling options, especially in the summer. I initially worried I’d feel like I was “doing a look” in these, but my feet felt right at home. The shoes are cool and comfortable and feel modern without screaming capital-F fashion.
Day 3: Our Legacy Camden Shoe
By day three, I was ready for a practised, versatile option — and Our Legacy’s Camden Shoe fit the bill. I was already partial to a bulky black shoe and have had these on my wish list for over a year. The stitched toe cap resembles a peace sign, which added some visual interest when the shoe peeked out from underneath my pants.
I wore the shoes to drinks with friends and paired them with wide-leg black jeans that pool a bit and a slightly oversized button-down. They were a hit! My friends, usually primed for provocation, agreed that these ones struck the right balance between unassuming and unconventional. The biggest compliment, however, was that they looked mature — I didn’t look like a grown-up wearing kids’ shoes. And with that, they officially joined my regular rotation.
Day 4: Rombaut Boccaccio II MJ Black
Ignore everything I said above about taking fashion risks. This freaky, futuristic, gender-bending style from Parisian brand Rombaut presented me with a fresh footwear challenge. These are the sort of otherworldly shoes seen on goth It girls — or, I imagine, on aliens if they were to touch down on earth from a distant ultra-fashionable planet. They feature two thin straps,
a hulking sole and a slightly pointed toe. I paired these bad boys with an understated, preppy-ish outfit to let them shine.
As I climbed the steps to the park in my family-friendly neighbourhood, I certainly raised eyebrows and caught stares. But once I got over my self-consciousness, I wholeheartedly embraced the outré style. They are not only insanely comfortable but also balance the masculine and feminine elements of the Mary Jane in a hyper-contemporary style that feels like nothing else on the market. Sometimes the thing you think goes with nothing actually goes with everything.
Day 5: Salomon RX Marie-Jeanne
Up until this point, I had consciously avoided wearing head-to-toe-gorpcore looks for fear of being asked to belay someone. (Twist: My deepest secret is that I actually enjoy rock climbing.) But these sporty Mary Janes from Salomon called to me. They suit the summer weather, can be worn comfortably without socks and support my delicate feet on my hours-long city walks
or my annual hike. They are both fashionable and functional, if you can imagine that. Anyway, I opted for a unique light-
grey colourway for a more monochromatic fit. Luckily, the haute hippies at my local greengrocer didn’t bat an eye.
Conclusion
During this sartorial experiment, I had a nagging thought: What took so long for this style to go (slightly) more mainstream? Trends today mostly start bottom up, birthed on TikTok before designers reinterpret those styles on the runway. This “adaptation,” let’s call it, of a historically feminine style feels both thoroughly of the moment and a long time coming. Also, as the fog of sneaker culture lifts, the proliferation of Mary Janes (and adjacent styles) on the market offers a refreshing new way for stylish guys to experiment — to play with fashion in ways rarely offered to us.
And with that, I’ll be T-strapping all summer long. My only tip? Unless you’re a true fashion freak, keep the rest of your outfit simple. Let the Mary Janes be the heroes.
This article first appeared in FASHION’s September 2024 issue. Find out more here.
This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.
