“Layering,” says Clare Waight Keller when I ask her biggest fall fashion trick. Sure, it sounds pretty simple (and at times, necessary for survival). But coming from Clare Waight Keller, the world-renowned luxury designer and newly-appointed Uniqlo creative director, it is, actually, quite groundbreaking. Especially when it comes to how she has taken her own advice.
We’re gathered in an airy SoHo studio to celebrate the Uniqlo: C Fall collection, and she has put expert-level mixing and matching on full display. She is wearing a button-down belted shirt dress with the lower half left undone, creating a breezy, cape-like silhouette. A pair of slouchy pleated trousers sit comfortably at her waist, while a structured blazer rests on her shoulders. It’s a billowy, monochrome oeuvre of elegance and ease, encapsulating the essence of someone truly in tune with their style.
That image is the ethos of the new collection, which celebrates the “spirit of the modern city” through an array of oversized well-tailored pieces. Think: relaxed parachute pants, cashmere-blend cropped vests and utility parkas. Though it has men’s and women’s sections, the line is genderless, says Keller, and is meant to evoke simplicity. Instead of asking what can be added to zhuzh things up, Uniqlo and Keller ask: What can be stripped back?
“There’s always a minimal undertone with everything that Uniqlo does, and I think that’s because there is this purest nature in Japanese culture,” she says. “It’s about taking away things that are not necessary.” By nixing an extra detail, drawstring or stitch line, the garment — and outfit — can truly shine.
From her outfit alone, Clare Waight Keller embodies this. She is free of accessories, obvious makeup and body-hugging silhouettes. In the age of the internet, where ever-evolving micro-trends can make you feel like you’re always one step behind, she exudes timeless taste. Is she immune to social-media born fads? Not exactly. Though she doesn’t scroll through feeds for fashion intel, Keller makes note of the people around her to see what’s trending.
“The street is the best place to find out what’s happening in fashion,” she says. “Another great place is the airport, because people are travelling and they want a mix of comfort and effortless clothes. And in the big cities, I often look around at universities, where you can see young people really playing with fashion.”
Still, Keller stands by the fact that the best kind of “rule” to follow when getting dressed is staying true to yourself.
“You need to know your fit. You need to know what your shape is. Often people follow trends, and it doesn’t always make sense. It’s more about finding the best silhouette and attitude that works on you,” she says. “And that’s trial and error. That’s just trying on clothes, styling things differently and looking to vintage fashion for inspiration.”
Essentially, you needn’t buy a lot or accessorize excessively to make a statement. Sometimes the simplest choices can make the biggest difference — even if it’s just finding a new way to layer.
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