Charting the Unlikely History of Ruffles

1500s

In 16th Century Europe (stay with me here), it was common to wear two layers of clothing. German soldiers began the practice of incising slashed patterns into the colourful, decorative outer layer of cloth, revealing the more plain layer beneath. It is speculated this came into fashion as it mimicked the ragged look of returning from war—something like a badge of honour. These inner layers were also prone to wrinkles, which soon became the pleb look du jour (I mean, tell me this dude doesn’t look chic AF).

Elizabethan Era (1500-1600s)

Eventually this wrinkled effect was enhanced with the help of a manmade ‘ruff’—a wide, pleated collar intended to be worn separately around the neck. They were stiffened with starch or wire, expensive and time consuming to care for, and gave the wearer the effect of holding their head up in a proud and lordly pose (Queen Elizabeth I was a huge fan, natch). At the height of its popularity, these aggressively oversized ‘cartwheel ruffs’ reached a diameter of 36 inches, which made it impossible to dine without the assistance of elongated utensils—the ultimate in chic dinner accessories.

1700s

With the advent of lace collars, the ruff fell out of fashion, and double layer cloth patterns ceased to be used, likely due to a preference for showing off the human form (especially that of the female’s, and especially within the hedonistic court of France). However, the ruffle effect was still considered desirable, so it became common for pieces of wrinkled cloth to be sewn onto the collars and sleeves of dresses. Marie Antoinette was known for her love of ruffles, thus cementing their status in extravagant, opulent fashion forever.

1920s

Ruffles persisted into the beginning of the 20th century, although they were applied to the more sleek silhouettes and rising hemlines of the flapper style.

1930s

Flamenco costumes heavily featured ruffles, utilizing their natural bounce to enhance the movement of this rapid style of dance.

1950s

After the wartime rationing of the 1940s, a desire for voluminous, indulgent fashions returned, and with it, the decadence of ruffles. These over-the-top shapes were especially favoured by couturiers like Dior and Balenciaga.

1970s

The seventies were a time of hippie love and ethereal, floaty fashions—the ideal climate for the more structured ruffle of the fifties to be reborn. Bianca Jagger was the unchallenged queen of this movement, pictured here at Studio 54 with ubiquitous white doves.

1980s

Likely the most famous ruffled dress in history, Princess Diana’s larger-than-life, fairy tale wedding gown introduced the style to an entirely new generation. Poufy, ruffled dresses would go on to become a hallmark of the eighties club scene.

1990s

The delicate, babydoll ruffled dresses of yore were re-appropriated during the nineties grunge phase, with disheveled girl rockers like Courtney Love bringing burned out, frilly slip dresses to the masses.

Today

Fashion’s current obsession with the ruffle is seemingly a hybrid of all the iterations that have come before—it’s a little ladylike, a little boho, a little subversive. The off-the-shoulder version seems to be one of the season’s favourite renditions of the style, and, quite frankly, no one rocks it better than Emily Ratajkowski.

…ok fine, Hailey Baldwin looks pretty great in it too.

Bella Hadid is also bangin’ in this minimalist number.

Karlie Kloss on that ruffles/oversized-sleeve tip.

Zendaya going full Southern belle with her ruffles.

Poppy Delevingne in the ruffled bather of our dreams.

RiRi slaying in a frothy ruffled skirt for her Puma slides campaign.

And finally—because it’s not a trend unless Kylie’s doing it. Happy ruffling!