Paris: Lanvin, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Pierre Hardy Fall 2009

LANVIN Fall 2009. Photography by Peter Stigter

Day two starts not with a bang, but with a “meh” at the Issey Miyake show. Designer Dai Fujiwara collaborated with karate masters to develop flexible fabrics for his latest offerings and the “katas” that the rent-a-karate-masters performed almost stole the show.

Some looks seemed of-the-moment, like wool pant suits or coats with coloured cuffs, a vinyl-esque jumpsuit with blousy three-quarter length pants and a pleated tube in the same shiny mystery fabric, but a bizarre grouping of poufy outfits in striped fabrics of all colours looked increasingly circus-like. Or rather, to quote my notebook directly: “like clown fell asleep in the fabric for her costume and then took a walk.”

Ran over to Pierre Hardy showroom, where Elle’s Joe Zee rushed in: “I love this, and I love this, and I’m late, I have to go!”  Lots of copper and pewter tones, crystal embellishments,  and my favourite—bolts of electric blue!

L is for Leah, L is for loves and L is for Lanvin! The fierce—and I do mean fierce, as in edgy, as in a beautiful but angry—collection from Alber Elbaz was urban magique: from the massive industrial space the girls walked through, passing under a rose-petal-printed archway; a runway made of raw, wet pavement; the gauntlet gloves, chunky neckplates and, of course, the clothes. Circular fur wraps you can just toss over your head that sit just-so around the shoulders, the black dress re-imagined with folds, pleats, tucks and bows or with studs along the seams making chiffon numbers simultaneously both pretty and tough.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Fall 2009. Photography by Peter Stigter

Yohji Yamamoto was all black, all-the time (with a few surprising hits of scarlet and white) and the winter coat—at mid-length, short and grazing the floor—took centre stage with perfect cuts and simple, not-too-thinky shapes.

After the show bumped into Canadian model Amanda Laine in the metro–she caused quite a stir when she boarded, still in her crazed hair and geisha-makeup from the show.

What was your favourite show? Check out our slideshows and tell us in the comments:

LANVIN | YOHJI YAMAMOTO | ALL FALL 2009