Paris: Lanvin, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Pierre Hardy Fall 2009
Day two starts not with a bang, but with a “meh” at the Issey Miyake show. Designer Dai Fujiwara collaborated with karate masters to develop flexible fabrics for his latest offerings and the “katas” that the rent-a-karate-masters performed almost stole the show.
Some looks seemed of-the-moment, like wool pant suits or coats with coloured cuffs, a vinyl-esque jumpsuit with blousy three-quarter length pants and a pleated tube in the same shiny mystery fabric, but a bizarre grouping of poufy outfits in striped fabrics of all colours looked increasingly circus-like. Or rather, to quote my notebook directly: “like clown fell asleep in the fabric for her costume and then took a walk.”
Ran over to Pierre Hardy showroom, where Elle’s Joe Zee rushed in: “I love this, and I love this, and I’m late, I have to go!” Lots of copper and pewter tones, crystal embellishments, and my favourite—bolts of electric blue!
L is for Leah, L is for loves and L is for Lanvin! The fierce—and I do mean fierce, as in edgy, as in a beautiful but angry—collection from Alber Elbaz was urban magique: from the massive industrial space the girls walked through, passing under a rose-petal-printed archway; a runway made of raw, wet pavement; the gauntlet gloves, chunky neckplates and, of course, the clothes. Circular fur wraps you can just toss over your head that sit just-so around the shoulders, the black dress re-imagined with folds, pleats, tucks and bows or with studs along the seams making chiffon numbers simultaneously both pretty and tough.
Yohji Yamamoto was all black, all-the time (with a few surprising hits of scarlet and white) and the winter coat—at mid-length, short and grazing the floor—took centre stage with perfect cuts and simple, not-too-thinky shapes.
After the show bumped into Canadian model Amanda Laine in the metro–she caused quite a stir when she boarded, still in her crazed hair and geisha-makeup from the show.
What was your favourite show? Check out our slideshows and tell us in the comments:
LANVIN | YOHJI YAMAMOTO | ALL FALL 2009