MFW diary: A new neutral at Max Mara and the last D&G show ever

Max Mara shot by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty Images

Max Mara shot by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty Images

“Teal is the new neutral,” declares Holt Renfrew‘s fashion director, Barbara Atkin, outside the Max Mara show, pointing to her gorgeous new Givenchy bag. And she’s right. It’s my second day in Milan and I’ve already seen nothing but blue-sky bags cropping up all over town and scattered throughout the front row. Did everyone get the same memo?

Inside the tent, there was a different sort of blue—a pastel (think Ladurée macaroon) aqua that’s been spotted throughout the spring collections. Max Mara mixed it with delicate shades of sand and ivory in a sporty, minimal collection highlighted by racer-back, colour-block dresses, athletic-inspired knee-length leggings (move over Lululemon) and trim little ¾-sleeve, blouson baseball jackets.

On to Fendi where gold– and silver–foil leaf eye shadow echoed leather trim on bags. Standouts among the cotton stripes were a sporty perforated caramel-suede/leather hoodie, and a divine peacock fur gilet.

Then, I headed to D&G, where, if the invitation is a clue, we were in for a print parade. Print parade at D&G? Now that’s an understatement! Prints on steroids is more like it and what a joyous, riotous affair it was! “We are going through a very happy period of our lives,” declared the duo, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and it certainly showed. Clashing scarf prints ruled the runway in every shocking colour and print combo possible. With lurex thrown in the mix, the vibe was sparkly, sexy, and spirited as teeny bloomers, bra tops, skirts, even scarf-wrapped wedges got the full foulard treatment. I guess we got the good news first, as it was announced a few hours after the show that the line was actually being shuttered, and folded into the main Dolce & Gabbana line. So long, prints!