With so much talk of disruption in media, retail and the fashion system, the chaos was bound to make its way into clothes.
The first leg of Fall 2016 shows is in full swing in NY and deconstruction has surfaced as a recurring theme.
Deconstruction. Disruption. Chaos. Whatever you want to call it, it all boils down to the same thing: it’s not business as usual.
Oh, there are still plenty of red carpet dresses, including many of the naked variety, by Jenny Packham, Reem Acra, and Johnathan Simkhai. All-white is the new all-black for day or night, especially when topped with a stunning fur-trimmed coat like at Prabal Gurung. There’s a cowgirl thing happening on the one hand, and sci fi on the other. Sometimes they come together in one place, like Jeremy Scott’s guitar and planetary knits. Opening Ceremony’s set even featured balloon-like space craft.
The athleisure trend seems bent on world domination with knit-cuffed trousers at 3.1 Phillip Lim, chic racing looks at Altuzarra (see #20) and Hood by Air’s entire line-up.
But there’s a certain f- you attitude running through some collections. The marijuana motifs at Alexander Wang. The models running helter skelter at Hood by Air. The I’ll-layer-it-anyway-I-please styling at Public School. And the chaotic prints and embroidery at Libertine.
It will be interesting to see how it all shakes out as the fashion train moves on to London this weekend.
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography courtesy of J.Crew
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
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Thom Browne Fall 2016
Deconstruction
Rips, slashes, raw edges and chains–even that punk icon, the safety pin–have been everywhere, even in the most pulled-together places like Victoria Beckham, Herve Leger and Johnathan Simkhai. Or designers messed with basics like streetwear (Hood by Air), denim (Public School), and menswear (Thom Browne).
Pictured: Thom Browne Fall 2016
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Public School Fall 2016
Deconstruction
Public School Fall 2016
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Hood by Air Fall 2016
Deconstruction
Hood by Air Fall 2016
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BCBG Fall 2016
Deconstruction
BCBG Fall 2016
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Alexander Wang Fall 2016
Slogans and symbols
Maybe it’s because of all the texting we’ve been doing. Words, phrases and almost-emojis popped up in allover prints at Libertine, caps and legs at Alexander Wang, among others.
Pictured: Alexander Wang Fall 2016
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Libertine Fall 2016
Slogans and symbols
Libertine Fall 2016
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Jeremy Scott Fall 2016
Slogans and symbols
Jeremy Scott Fall 2016
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Coach Fall 2016
Slogans and symbols
Coach Fall 2016
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Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2016
Knits
They came arty at Derek Lam and Jeremy Scott, fringed at Altuzarra, loopy at Jonathan Simkai, and whimsically embellished at Tommy Hilfiger. And the classic fisherman sweater goes upscale at Prabal Gurung, Altuzarra and Hilfiger.
Pictured: Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2016
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Altuzarra Fall 2016
Knits
Altuzarra Fall 2016
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Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2016
Knits
Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2016
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Prabal Gurung Fall 2016
Big and fluffy
Parkas, shearlings and utility jackets are oversized and coats are long (Prabal Gurung, 3.1 Phillip Lim). There’s a slouchy ease in many collections (you could even call it The Row effect) and designers are making a strong case for pleated pants (see Tibi and J Crew). In terms of texture, the more touchable, the better. There’s lots of velvet around, especially at 3.1 Phillip Lim. And teddy bear fluff is the new must have at Derek Lam.
Pictured: Prabal Gurung Fall 2016
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Derek Lam Fall 2016
Big and fluffy
Derek Lam Fall 2016
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Phillip Lim Fall 2016
Big and fluffy
3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2016
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Rag Bone Fall 2016
Big and fluffy
Rag & Bone Fall 2016
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Victoria Beckham Fall 2016
Bustiers and corsets
There’s a whole lotta ladies who don’t want to hide under an oversized anything. For them, there are plenty of bustiers dresses from Victoria Beckham and corsetry from Tome.
Pictured: Victoria Beckham Fall 2016
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Oscar de la Renta Fall 2016
Bustiers and corsets
Oscar de la Renta Fall 2016
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Tome Fall 2016
Bustiers and corsets
Tome Fall 2016
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Jcrew Fall 2016
Pink
It’s everywhere, including a fabulous fluffy jacket at J. Crew, but most interesting when worn ironically with a scowl, like at Public School.
Pictured: J.Crew Fall 2016
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Public School Fall 2016
Public School Fall 2016
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Coach-Fall-2016
Printed dresses
The freshest dresses around are in allover prints with a slightly retro feel. The sweeter and cuter, the better.