Step Away From Walnut Face Scrubs And Opt For These Gentler Exfoliators Instead
In light of the uproar over Kylie Jenner's Walnut Face Scrub, a refresher on the the kinder options for ridding yourself of dead skin cells.
By
Ashley Joseph
Date June 6, 2019
We’ve come a long way since the heyday of St. Ives Apricot Scrub—or so we thought. Kylie Jenner’s recent foray into skincare has reignited the debate over harsh physical exfoliators, getting the online beauty community up in arms over her Walnut Face Scrub. (It’s currently sold out on her site, which gives us pause for those who bought it). Essentially a dupe of the scrub by St. Ives (which *does* work wonders on dry elbows and knees, but also was at the centre of a lawsuit not too long ago), Jenner’s version uses walnut powder, an ingredient that has often been criticized for causing micro-tears in the skin. That’s partly why we’ve seen, in recent years, a shift away physical exfoliators and towards chemical resurfacers—aside from being, generally, more effective at penetrating the skin and increasing cell turnover.
The consensus among dermatologists is that both chemical and physical exfoliators (see: microdermabrasion) have their place, but the chemical route is the superior choice for daily at-home use. Today, there are also plenty of in-between options: physical exfoliators that make the most of non-sandpaper-like ingredients to *gently* buff away dead skin without, figuratively speaking, scorching the earth.
Sunday Riley Good Genes
($207, Sephora)
This cult product from Sunday Riley is beloved for its powerful AHA formula. It works like a serum—to be applied underneath your moisturizer—and melts away dead skin cells, leaving skin looking plump and glowing. With regular use, it can also help reduce the appearance of sunspots. You’ll just have to ignore its funky smell—but really, if a product (especially a chemical exfoliant) smells like a bouquet of roses, it’s more than likely not going to be the most effective.
Caudalie Glycolic Peel
($51, Sephora)
Another AHA powerhouse, this mask works its magic without any scrubbing required. Just smear a thick layer over your skin and in 10 minutes, dead skin cells will disappear thanks to glycolic acid and papaya enzymes. All the heavy lifting (er, scrubbing) is done for you.
Tatcha Rice Polish Foaming Enzyme Powder
($84, Sephora)
Straddling the categories of physical and chemical, Tatcha’s powder exfoliator gets the job done with a blend of Japanese rice bran powder and papaya enzymes. It also has the added benefit of making its user feel like a sorcerer, transforming this powder formula into a paste and then a foam with the addition of water. Basically, it’s exfoliation and a show.
Multiberry Yogurt Peeling Gel
($29, Laneige)
You can file Laneige’s signature exfoliator in the category of gentlest skincare products in existence. The formula owes its skin-smoothing power to tiny non-abrasive konjac beads (made from the konjac plant). It barely feels like a scrub on application, but still leaves skin feeling brand new.
This popular mask delivers a triple threat of gentle exfoliation, with a physical, chemical and enzyme component. The aluminum oxide crystals loosen dead skin cells, the AHA acids go to work on dissolving those dead skin cells, and pumpkin enzymes (or fruit acids) help boost cell turnover. During application, just make sure to scrub gently to avoid irritating your skin.
Omorovicza Acid Fix AHA BHA Treatment
($165, Sephora)
If you’re looking for the power of all the skin resurfacing acids in one bottle, this is the product for you. From Budapest-based line Omorovicza, this combines glycolic, salicylic and lactic acid, and is particularly worthwhile for acne sufferers or those prone to the occasional breakout.
Essentially the gold standard in chemical exfoliation, Biologique Recherche has been quietly making their P50 Lotion for four decades. Apply it like a toner while ignoring its famously awful scent, and you’ll feel a bit of tingling and maybe even a slight burning—but no need to panic. That’s how you know its acids are working.
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. Essentially a dupe of the scrub by St. Ives (which *does* work wonders on dry elbows and knees, but also was at the centre of a lawsuit not too long ago), Jenner's version uses walnut powder, an ingredient that has often been criticized for causing micro-tears in the skin. That's partly why we've seen, in recent years, a shift away physical exfoliators and towards chemical resurfacers—aside from being, generally, more effective at penetrating the skin and increasing cell turnover.
https://twitter.com/dustafford/status/1136085303846789120
The consensus among dermatologists is that both chemical and physical exfoliators (see: microdermabrasion) have their place, but the chemical route is the superior choice for daily at-home use. Today, there are also plenty of in-between options: physical exfoliators that make the most of non-sandpaper-like ingredients to *gently* buff away dead skin without, figuratively speaking, scorching the earth.
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