Exclusive: Peter Philips on Dior’s Spring 2021 Beauty Look and Nailing Mask Makeup
On Tuesday, Dior held its Spring 2021 show at the Tuileries Garden in Paris on day one of Paris Fashion Week – and as with everything the luxury French fashion house produces, it was a visual spectacle. A black show space was punctuated with stained glass windows, and models walked the runway to the sound of a live choir. As for the clothes? The 86-piece collection was brimming with gorgeous, wearable pieces that wouldn’t be out of place in a (very luxe) work from home wardrobe, and the Dior Spring 2021 beauty look was also entirely Zoom-appropriate.
Speaking of beauty, Peter Philips, the creative and image director of Dior Makeup, pointed to the setting for the show as his inspiration for the look. “The eye makeup is a little like one element from a stained glass collage. You take the eye and you frame it,” he explained adding that the “strong black eye makeup matches the black box and the light comes from the eyes.”
The look can be distilled into three parts – “gorgeous skin, strong eyes and plump lips,” Philips explain. For the former, he used the Dior Backstage Face & Body Foundation “for a beautiful, natural finished which is luminous, but not pearlescent” and very little powder, applying only “when we needed to mattify around the nose or forehead.” From there, the eyes stole the show. The thick-rimmed liner was achieved using the new Diorshow 24hr Stylo which Philips says can be used both “as an eyeliner and as a kohl liner.” He notes that the pencil can be used to create a softer eye look, however for the show Philips opted for “a sharp eye with soft edges.” A swipe of Dior Addict Lip Maximizer was added for a plumping effect, and in Philips’ words, “Voila, that’s it.”
Given our new face mask-wearing reality, Philips also shared a few tips for perfecting your makeup, advising that your approach should be “adapted” and adding that now is the perfect time to “discover the magic of eye makeup.” He suggests focusing “on the eyelid and the eyebrows” and “not putting too much under your eye because when your mask [slides up your face] it can smudge your makeup.”
As for the rest of the face, Philips says, “If you’re able to take your mask off at some point, I would suggest a lip stain, something that can handle smudging, or a long-lasting lipstick” and suggests you carry a compact foundation or powder “so that you can easily retouch your face when you take the mask off.” If you’re partial to a bit of contouring and highlighting, Philips suggests working those steps into your foundation because “it’s easier to fix when you take your mask off when it’s in your foundation.” Primer is also key. “Moisturize first, then add a little film of primer and then apply your foundation – it will change the world for you,” notes Philips, who finishes by saying: “Shift the focus and embrace gorgeous eye makeup – who knows, you might just discover a new woman in you.”