Dior Fall 2015: Side ponytails, mismatched manis + the end of beauty faux pas

A photo posted by @peterphilipsmakeup on

While makeup artists seem to be into sticking things to models’ skin this season (with Givenchy being the most recent addition to the list), it appears Peter Philips, the Godfather of facial adornment, has retired his glue gun for the time being. The looks he created for Fendi and Dries Van Noten involved no appliqués. The same went for Dior, where the delicate macaron-hued satin strips he applied on eyes last season were replaced with heavy-handed helping of eyeshadow.

Using different shades for each model, Philips worked with two palettes featuring hues like navy, khaki and blackened jewel tones, drawing a bubble-edged silhouette with a (gasp!) sponge-tip applicator to yield the kidney shape he was going for.

And while negative space nails are gaining traction, Philips introduced a new trend to consider: the asymmetrical manicure. He painted each hand a different shade, using colour combos like scarlet, indigo and plum. Philips has a history of starting nail revolutions. He created wait-listed shades for Chanel like Jade and Particulière, and he’s the man behind this video.

Over in hair, Guido Palau was also shaking things up, pulling strands into side ponies, a look that on paper seems too ‘80s teen flick. But Palau added length to the tails and rested them over the shoulder—tweaks that made them feel more sophisticated and modern.

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