How to Choose the Best Cosmetic Lip Procedure For You

“Come with me to get a lip lift.” “Get ready with me to get lip filler.” “POV you got a lip flip.”

Depending on what corner of TikTok you’re on, it can seem like getting a lip touch-up has become as common and standard of a beauty maintenance routine as a manicure. And the numbers don’t lie: In 2023, there was a 29 per cent increase in lip-enhancement procedures globally compared to the previous year.

But now that there are more options for plumping your pout, how do you know which is the right procedure for you? Do you want a flip or a lift? Or perhaps just some good ol’ fashioned lip filler? Allow the pros to weigh in.

Lip Lift

What It Is

As the only permanent lip-plumping option on the list, a lip lift is a “surgical procedure done to shorten the distance between the top of the lip and the nose,” explains Dr. Trevor Born, cosmetic surgeon and founder of TMB Cosmetic Surgery, which has offices in Toronto and New York City.

“The ideal lip-lift candidate has an elongated upper lip,” adds Dr. Michael Brandt, an otolaryngologist (head and neck surgeon) who specializes in facial cosmetic and reconstructive surgery at Toronto’s Form Face + Body. “If you don’t have that, you run the risk of over-shortening the upper lip or having too much teeth showing when you smile.”

Results and Recovery

Following a lip-lift procedure, patients are able to get sutures removed in a week or less and swelling goes down one to two weeks later.

Some Things to Consider

A lip lift is, indeed, a surgical procedure with permanent results. As such, it will result in some scarring, but it’s generally in a discreet location, such as at the vermilion border of the upper lip or the base of the nose, says Born.

Lip Flip

What It Is

A lip flip involves injecting a neuromodulator-like botulinum toxin (such as Botox or Dysport) in small amounts at the border of the upper and lower lips. “It works to weaken the muscle at the edge of the lip, allowing the lip to increase in size, as well as soften vertical lip lines or smoker lines,” says Born.

Results and Recovery

The results of a lip flip are somewhat subtle and predictable (no surprises here!) and take two weeks to see. Results of a lip flip can last three to four months.

Some Things to Consider

“There can be too much lip-muscle weakening in people who have been overly injected, which would create problems drinking and in rare cases difficulty pronouncing ‘Ps’ and ‘Bs,’” says Born.

Lip Filler

What It Is

“Lip filler uses hyaluronic-acid gel (filler gel) to add volume to a lip,” says Brandt. “Filler can also be used to shape a lip and provide some structure.”

Results and Recovery

“The results can be subtle or dramatic, depending on the volume of filler injected,” says Brandt. “It’s prudent to work with an experienced medical professional who can help obtain the results you’re after without causing the lips to look ‘ducky.’” (IYKYK.)

You may have some bruising or swelling for up to 10 days, but you’ll notice a difference in lip size immediately, which will last roughly six to nine months.

Some Things to Consider

“Filler can move or migrate over time,” says Brandt. “It can look unnatural if too much is done, may require repeat treatments to reach a particular aesthetic goal and can be painful.”

Additionally, “lips that are thin, poorly positioned in relation to the teeth or asymmetrical are more difficult to contour with filler,” explains Born. “In these cases, shaping may have to be done in stages. Plus, there is always a risk of lumps and bumps or injury to the lip. For those with thinner lips, filler tends not to last very long. Lip filler can also cause herpetic reactions and cold sores. Lastly, if the results are overdone, you may need to have some removed.”

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2025 issue. Find out more here.