Berlin Fashion Week Fall 2014: The top 10 moments from this burgeoning style scene
Any Berliner worth their passport will tell you that their native city takes many other things more seriously (72-hour stretches of clubbing, for example) than fashion. This notion is mostly upheld, if only from a practical point-of-view—the girls wear flats, and the boys never wear plaid. But, with each edition of Berlin Fashion Week, it appears that the city has become a little more comfortable with its power on the runway. Still relatively-new in its 14th season, the Berlin tents have become a breeding ground for a cool, calm, and, above all else, considerate style ideology, edging out other Mercedes Benz-run weeks (except New York, duh), as a top contender for international glory.
The first round of Fall 2014 shows welcomed 50 designers from across Northern Europe, and, even more exciting were the 11 debuts alone, from a young newcomer who received orders from Lady Gaga, like, five minutes ago, and a Russian sartorial empress-in-the-making who has already dressed Naomi Campbell. The potential for breakout success is palatable, with well-heeled Anglos like Georgia May Jagger and Elizabeth Hurley spotted front row. And while all these street style blogs like to portray Berlin as the city of dark, unapologetic black and slouchy fits (which, fine, it is), there’s also an emerging, beautiful trend toward elegance and opulence to be found that is anti-Berlin indeed, but echoes back to Germany’s golden Enlightenment era—you know, pre-1914. Here’s 10 of our favourite moments and designer picks from Berlin Fashion Week’s Fall 2014 shows.
1. The Enfant Terrible: Patrick Mohr
Once notoriously noteworthy for using facial hair and bald caps to transform top models into fierce hobbits and casting homeless “real people” in his first runway show, Patrick Mohr is a champion of, as it is written, “sophisticated sportswear.” Eschewing the traditional once again, the Munich-born designer opted for an off-site installation in the prettiest, creakiest warehouse in the prettiest, dullest part of town. Better still and legitimately rare, Mohr showcased unisex blue hues on dark-skinned models, led by the striking up-and-comer Papis Loveday. His tenth collection of outwear and billowing shapes paired with tough leather and namesake detailing offered a play on proportions to rally “against arbitrary limits.” Despite its industrial-electro soundtrack, you could easily walk away feeling you were on set at a shoot for a cover of Janet Jackson’s “Rhythm Nation,” even if unintentional.
2. The Veteran: Esther Perbandt
Now in the tenth year of her career, you can glean that Esther Perbandt knows what she likes and and the odds are ever in her favour. For her milestone celebration, which featured a top-tier guest-list, Perbandt pulled inspiration from Valeska Gert, who, as a Jewish cabaret dancer in the early 1900s, was somewhat of an original punk. True-to-form, black was, of course, still the new black for the Berlin native, who paraded local theatre stars and artists, younger and older, in suits and ties, with mild accents of cream and grey, chunky layers and sheer shirts, and slouchy fits. The celebration broke the Fourth Wall indeed, with an uncommon free, public after-party complete with its own after-party.
3. The Next Generation: Bagaz, Ewa Herzog, Perret Schaad
A favourite of German celebs, designer Ewa Herzog already has three lines on the go, from prêt-à-porter to couture, and this season marked her debut at Fashion Week proper. There’s a pleasant and skillful subtly to Herzog’s line, which was inspired by the strength of feminism and therefore does feel made for the everywoman: lace overlays, smooth vegan leather pants and faux fur vests, accented with florals. Other proponents of elegant simplicity include labels Bagaz and Perret Schaad, both barely two years old, who opt for winning colour blocks, sheer gowns and fits with room to breathe, all down with an artistic flair.
4. The Rocker: Laurèl
With a show timed to the birth of Patron Saint of Sex, Kate Moss, Laurèl designer Elisabeth Schwaiger wanted to evoke the high priestess’ ties to fashion and rock-n-roll to explore the brand’s mantra of “feminine luxury ease.” And we bet Ms. Moss would eat up every second of it. One of the more accomplished labels in the game, Laurèl is masterful at opposition and rebellion, like chunky boots with an embellished mini-dress (with gowns to match). A cityscape-print rendered from a Jo Netzko painting landed on skirts and shirts perfect for the club, country or otherwise. Leopard and python prints were followed by fur detailing, gossamer lace and neoprene.
5. The Couturier: Marina Hoermansder
No debut was as exciting and satisfying as that of Marina Hoermansder. Since graduating last summer and cutting her teeth at Alexander McQueen, Hoermansder has become the brightest, boldest face coming out of Berlin. Her motto: Go big, go bizarre, or go home. And so, for her first turn on the runway, the rising star sent down leather corsets and braces, reminiscent of those for orthopedic use. It’s a collection that, while odd, is visually pleasing. By the end of the week, German papers were reporting that Lady Gaga had already placed orders.
6.The Inspiration: Literary Theory
An omnipresent inspiration for designers could be found in the pages of literary classics. Still relatively unknown in Germany, Russian designer Alena Akhmadullina made her Berlin debut with a pristine, well-constructed collection that took cues from Oscar Wilde’s The Canterville Ghost, adopting British suiting and trench coat detailing onto dresses offset by feminine gowns, mink coats and silk prints. Having already outfitted Naomi—both Watts and Campbell—Akhmadullina’s mature, lush patterns, colours and textures are even attracting nouveau-A-Listers, like Georgia May Jagger sitting front row. Continuing the trend, designer Anja Gockel found a muse in Middle Ages hero Holdegard of Bingen, while using the stanzas of poetry to represent her clean lines and precise silhouettes. Even the label Juliaandben designer Julia Heuse held her show at Karl-Marx-Buchhandlung, a historic Berlin literary institution.
7. Skate Cult
Music, undoubtedly, is the heart that pumps blood through the veins of anything worth anyone’s time in Berlin. And so the honour of most fashion-y, unofficial jam at Fashion week goes to House of Vans. With a Kenzo shoe collab on every stylish skater boy from here to Paris, Vans popped-up for an invite-only holy court of beats and boards, modeled after their members-only event space and skatepark in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. The House enlisted the team behind Boiler Room, “the world’s most underground music show,” to broadcast the party live. The headliner? New York rapper Angel Haze, hot off the long-time-coming release of her debut disc, Dirty Gold.
8. The Boys Are All Right
Speaking of Julia Heuse, her menswear offering was among the best to be seen all week, with the genre holding its own alongside its counterpart shows. In Berlin, many more designers, like Perbandt and Mohr, attempt to dress both men and women, and often succeed with ease and fluidity. Well-trained Heuse’s Juliaandben line exhibited cropped skater pants with hoods, leather shirts, with an almost entirely black palette seemingly designed for the man who appreciates everything except au courant fashion. Otherwise, it was business as usual as labels like Vladimir Karaleev and Brachmann presented the menswear with update fits, fabrics and colours.
9. The Purrfect Editor
Talk about clawing your way to the top. Introducing Cat-Editor Tushette, who is basically everyone’ spirit animal in a Chanel suit and biker jackets. Described as the “furr-tastic It-girl of the next generation,” Madame Tushette was dispatched to the tents – and wherever else a cork was popping – by underground, high-luxe fashion zine Tush and has already amassed quite the digital following. Designed by Oliver Bartem and his company Mystic-Creatures, it’s all part of the sweeping movement of the “Furries” community that explores anthropomorphic animal beings for human self-expression (and play). Think Minnie Mouse – with a cuter outfit.
10. Topshop Loves Berlin, too
Second only to the Boiler Room buzz was Topshop/Topman‘s official Berlin welcome. Opened at the end of last summer in mega-posh department store KaDeWe (think The Bay-meets-Harrords), Topshop had yet to throw a big bash for its fashionable admirers, and this one delivered. How guests secured The Golden Ticket: Instagram a selfie with the posters around town or get street-style’d by a hackney carriage (London taxi) roaming the streets. Featuring a DJ set from Hot Chip’s Joe Goddard and the brand’s trademark photo booth fun, the night’s highlight was a surprise set by Danish singer (and Diplo collaborator) Mø, whose LP No Mythologies to Follow is sure to go global when it’s released next month. Luckily, the magic’s already on film.
